If Last Week's sartorial advice seemed squarely aimed at women, this week’s version is all about the men. And why shouldn’t it be? Indian men are more interested than ever in international runway trends, and they’re more likely to be confused by a pair of silken cigarette pants modelled by a
slim-hipped blonde who may not even be male. This season’s trends, thankfully, aren’t gender bending. Boys will be boys and they’ll look like boys too. Still, a thin line divides dapper and drab. We show you exactly where to draw it. You’re welcome!
Amidst a sea of skinny pants (and variations of cropped ones), is the welcome trend of baggy, voluminous trousers. We saw it with Armani, Louis Vuitton and Ferragamo. They were pleated, yet forgiving on the legs, and were paired with fitted jackets, T-shirts and dress shirts. Voluminous pants look more relaxed and casual. To go dressy, throw on a jacket and tie. Add definition with a smart belt.
White on white
Womenswear is going white-on-white too so this is a nice opportunity to match your clothes with your woman’s. Daks, Corneliani, Etro, Givenchy, Aigner and Bottega Veneta, all drew a blanck with their separates, from loose white trousers and thin tees to all-white suits with a hint of colour via ties and shoes. The look is clean and fresh, but stylist Amit Hansraj says all-white bottoms are hard for Indian men to pull off, if they’re not fit. “Wear a white shirt, tee or bandhgala jacket and match it with white shoes. Skip the white pants. The crotch looks odd and it can make the body look a little broad.” And make sure you play with textures and cuts so you don’t look like a ward boy.
At Milan fashion week, Bottega showcased thin leather jackets for summer to great effect. The jacket (it’s not a coat) is short, fitted, zippered or buttoned and very chic. “Jackets make an outfit look dressy and that’s why they are great with casual white shirts, shorts and denims this spring,” says stylist Rin Jajo. Canali, Armani, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Burberry, Givenchy, Prada, Valentino – all the bigwigs had variations of the summer jacket in bright shades as well as military greens, with cuffs and belts setting off the details. Wear the jacket with baggy or narrow pants, with denims or over shorts. But keep it casual by rolling up the sleeves. Pay attention to the fit: you can’t float in it and the jacket should be an inch smaller or just fitted enough. The sleeves should end right at your wrist.
The safe knee-length shorts are making way for the trickier short shorts. Shorts pretended they were pants and were worn with as much seriousness in the collections of Calvin Klein, Armani, Zegna, Lanvin, Missoni, Burberry, Brioni, Kenzo and Dolce & Gabbana. The way to wear them is to pair them with T-shirts and more casual shirts. “The big trend this season is to throw on a jacket or coat and even wear a shorts suit – wear a tie, shirt and fashionable blazer (of course, for the fashionable types),” says stylist Rin Jajo.
From HT Brunch, March 10
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