A treasure island called Taiwan

Smaller than NCR, tiny Taiwan is big on surprises. The moment you are there, you’ll notice Taiwan’s low-key, high-performance nature, so atypical of island cultures. And a warm-hearted and industrious population is the biggest draw.

Where is Taiwan anyway?
Don’t go looking for it at teatime, munching khari biscuits as you pore over the Reader’s Digest World Atlas as I did the summer I was 11. All it takes is one spilled crumb to cover the island just off the south-east coast of China, hiding it from view, making you wonder if it even exists.

Taiwan is seriously tiny. At 36,193 square kilometres, it is smaller than our NCR and less than four per cent the area of China. But the island once christened Formosa (Beautiful) by the Portuguese, is also seriously hard to figure out. It has its own constitution, president, armed forces, flag, anthem and currency. But the UN (including India) sees Taiwan as a part of China. Taiwan’s official name is Republic of China. And only 20-odd countries have diplomatic relations with it as a separate nation.

Taiwan doesn’t seem so tiny when you view it from the top of the Taipei 101 building Photo: Shutterstock

TRAVEL INFO

Taiwan’s currency is the NTD or New Taiwan Dollar (one NTD is roughly `2). Carry USD and convert when you land.

The country is 2.5 hours ahead of India. Sunrise and sunset are earlier, so dinner is usually done with by 6.30pm.

Direct flights are available only from Delhi. China Airlines offers the most regular service.

At the mighty canyons of Taroko National Park, the world appears similarly vast and wonderful Photo: Thinkstock

TRIBE AND TESTED

Taiwan’s 14 recognised indigenous tribes make up two per cent of the population. Some archaeologists believe Taiwan to be the northernmost boundary of Austronesia, considering its indigenous people share a bloodline and cultural similarities with native peoples in Hawaii, New Zealand, Malaysia and Indonesia. We met Lalan Unak of the Amis tribe (whose name for itself is Pangcha) for questions, a demo of traditional fishing methods and aboriginal songs at the Vata’an Cultural and Historical Studio. His Pangcha way of life seems pretty interesting. The tribe is matrilineal – women inherit and play the dominant role in public life. They also choose their own husbands at marriage festivals at which single men hang sling bags from one shoulder, those who’ve wed before carry it crossbody. "If a woman likes a man, she grabs his bag," Unak says. What’s in it? "Love!" A woman can abandon her man too, "if he is lazy, gluttonous or sick" he adds. Want to move there yet?

TAIWAN AT THE TABLE

Taipei, New Taipei City, Taichung and Taoyuan have a few Indian restaurants and places serving halal-approved cuisine. Indian food is often at hotel buffets too. But if you have any dietary restrictions, it’s best to check with restaurants ahead of your visit. If you’re an omnivore, like me, Taiwan is pure delight. We didn’t have a single dull meal over our week-long stay. Much of the cuisine is that of Chinese Minnan immigrants. Expect lots of greens (stir-fried with meats and seafood, not as a vegetarian dish), brothy soups and stews and very little rice. Chicken dishes are widely available. If you do eat pork, don’t miss the chance. Taiwan’s pig-rearing skills are legendary – they once exported pork to Japan – and they make delicately flavoured dishes out of pork belly, the knuckles, ears, liver, even the blood, which is mixed with sticky rice to form cakes. If you can, try Taipei’s much-loved beef noodle soup. The clear broth and braised versions both have loyal supporters in the capital. Morning markets make for good food trails. At one at Kaohsiung, we found fried dumplings, sushi, fresh fruit, shaved ice with syrups and oyster omelettes. Also, lottery tickets! If you’re on the highways, stop for sugarcane juice. The Taiwanese roast their cane before extraction, giving the juice a wonderful caramelised flavour. Plenty of places serve home-style food. In Jiji, try He Fong (pronounced Her Fung) and near Taroko National Park, head to Lan Lan Seafood for wok-tossed fern, betel shoot, pork and shrimp. n In Hualien, famous for pork won ton soup, Daiji Bianshi (Dai’s Dumpling House) serves the kind that will change your life. The broth is silky, the dumplings meaty and flavourful without the peppery aftertaste. Chiang Kai Shek’s son loved it. Everybody is obsessed with pineapple cake, paying extraordinary amounts for bite-sized pastries stuffed with pineapple pulp or jam. Sunny Hills in Jiji is famous for theirs. n Din Tai Fung, Taiwan’s Michelin-star brand, is where soup-filled dim sum was invented. Don’t pop the scalding thing in your mouth. Pick one up gracefully with a soup spoon, spear with chopstick so soup oozes out to cool. Then eat. Hakka-style food (squid with bean curd, spring onion rice, and noodles with pork) is served at Ya-Zhou Hakka in Puli. At Taipei’s Ningxia Night Market, barbecued beef, hog hoof rice and fried eel are bestselling delicacies. n Kwang Fu Hong Wa Wu seems less like a mouthful after an aboriginal Amis meal there. Big portions of braised pork belly, sea-salt crusted smoked local fish, wild rice and crunchy noodles are on the menu. Try to meet the owner, Na Kaaw, an Amis witch doctor and sculptor whose woodworks act as talismans for childless couples. Overlooking New Taipei city is Marshal Zen Garden, an oasis of calm and onetime residence of Chinese hero Zhang Xueliang. Equally zen is their Young Marshal set meal, with modern plating and very clean flavours.