To listen to Delhi’s heartbeat, make a round of the Inner or Outer Circles in Connaught Place (CP). Do it after 8 pm. Don’t walk inside the corridor but on the pavement next to the road, under the sky.
At this time, the electric bulbs of high-rises such as Statesman House and LIC Building will be twinkling behind a haze of fumes. The glow of the streetlights will be mixing in with the moonshine. Inside showrooms, the attendants will be handling the day’s last customers. Behind the glass panels of fast food outlets, solitary souls will be feeding on french fries. At bus stops, homebound day-jobbers will be standing with their lunch boxes and leather bags. In parking stands, lonely homosexuals will be cruising for emergency love.
Elsewhere, doped beggars will be huddling together to smoke more hashish. Tormented lovers will be counting minutes to the farewell hour. Anaemic street children will be selling colourful balloons. Tourists will be walking with their eyes glued to their Lonely Planet guides.
And when you have to cross the roads between blocks, the zipping cars will not stop for you. To your urban sensibilities, the sound of their blaring horns will be like the climactic movements of a symphony orchestra. Most likely, you will want a repeat performance.