The mood at Paris Fashion Week that had remained somewhat sombre, after the infamous John Galliano ouster, warmed up a bit when John Galliano — the label, not the man — presented its fall-winter collection on Sunday in the intimate surroundings of a Parisian salon. American model Karlie Kloss opened the presentation in a checkered grey tweed jacket, mottled skirt cut just below the knee, and tall black felt hat. More tweeds and furs followed, belted tightly at the waist, testifying to Galliano’s strong sense of tailoring, with evening wear distinguished by sheer flowing fabrics in deep violet and sombre green shades. Here’s a highlight of some of the other big shows:
Hermes sent out a soft, calm and restful fall-winter 2011-12 ready-to-wear collection. The clothes, roomy parkas in buttery leather and floor-length mohair capes, had an understated elegance to them.
The fall collection was the girl version of the snarling rottweiler-covered menswear collection they showed sometime back. Sleek black panthers, some wearing gold chains in guise of collars, replaced the frothy-mouthed rottweilers.
Volume took the first swing, with extra-wide-shouldered blazers that practically doubled the width of the narrow models, and chunky knit sweaterdresses that through some miracle of engineering held their maxi-shape.
Designer Antonio Marras for Kenzo sent out a ravishing collection of long flowing patchwork dresses and cropped jackets with dainty beadwork, floor-length flowered broom skirts and chunky knit sweaters and black lace suits that felt like they were channelling chic mariachi garb. Kenzo is known for its bright, upbeat colour palette, but fall’s colours were sombre.
- Associated Press & Agence France Press