Karl Lagerfeld did it, Jean Paul Gaultier indulged in it and Diane Von Furstenberg flaunted it with elan. All these designers have been inspired by India in their collections, and one of fashion’s favourite labels, Marchesa is the latest to join the stylish list.
At the recently-concluded New York Fashion Week, designer duo Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig of the label showcased their collection, which was vividly desi in its look and incorporated colours, cuts and silhouettes inspired by India. From salwar kameez to contemporised lehengas and lacy saris — the show was complete with models wearing gilded makeup and anklets. “India has become a favourite inspiration among international designers because of the major economic boom and the growing market. Apart from this collection, I also liked Furstenberg’s Rajasthan-influenced collection, it was really beautiful. India inspires in a big way,” says designer Gaurav Gupta.
“It seems Marchesa has been inspired by the 90’s desi fashion that was seen on the Indian runways. Emilio Pucci also did something similar, influenced by the country,” says designer Rina Dhaka.
Bridalwear favourite Vera Wang’s Spring/Summer ‘13 collection also saw the ramp being overtaken by intricate embroidery, Nehru collars, brocade, jewelled waist clasps and choli jackets. “The collection doesn’t relate to India in the usual way. Wang presented a modified and altered version of the Nehru collar and had a bolder take on the choli jacket on display,” says fashion blogger Manou. “I liked Wang’s collection, it was interesting. You can see hand embroidery and textural evolution of brocade in the pieces showcased on the ramp. The collection is different from what the designer usually presents at her shows,” says designer Nida Mahmood.