When an established fashion fiesta such as the Lakme Fashion Week sheds its old clothes (seasonal theme) and slips into new ones (resort wear theme from this time onwards), it is only natural that one walks into the venue with renewed hopes… that our participating designers will no longer do what they felt like on the fashion runway and start doing something that is in agreement with the assigned theme.
On this count, day one at LFW looked just perfect. Collections showcased did look like resort wear. I quite liked what Vizyon did on the catwalk. The collection was not only a neatly executed one, but it exuded the desired ‘chic’ factor all through the presentation. Clean surface, subtle hues and uncluttered silhouettes made the collection stand out in a three-designer showing.
Unfortunately I cannot say the same about the other two designers who presented before this label. While Riyaz Gangji and his label Libas struggled to control his creations (some jackets were nice, but most looked as if they were made in a hurry. Trousers looked the same way as well). Babita M managed to coordinate some of her outfits with the footwear by bringing down the motifs to the shoes, but failed to make an impact in the audience with her creations even with the presence of a Bollywood star.
I always felt that fashion designers should move away from their predictable nature and guess that’s what designer duo Shyamal and Bhumika chose to do this time. Moving away from their rather ornate Indian silhouettes, they came out with breath easy cuts bearing the theme Holi (palm prints and sprayed impressions of colours).
I felt, however, that they should have somewhat stuck to what they started the show with — the flared garments that stayed away from the body — rather than moving on to fitted silhouettes. Nikasha, as usual, came out with yet another presentation of India with saris and blouses with hints of embroidery, long skirts, interesting blouses and a collection that spelt overall elegance.
While I didn’t quite understand why Krishna Mehta brought in somebody called Rohit Verma in a woman’s clothing as her show stopper, what she did know was how to make a good collection. Well made and well put together, her creations, especially ecru embroidered draped viscose tops, cotton silk voile pin tuck blouse, linen ikat embroidered dress and red dupion silk shift were particularly noticeable. Pria Kataria Puri did what’s best for her market – kaftans and a fair sprinkle of heavily embroidered saris, some bordering over a heavy overdose of colours.
Fun with fabrics
Sabyasachi Mukherjee did what he is best at once again. He played around with his familiar bunch of fabrics, this time in more contemporary silhouettes and separate formats, with a few sparkles thrown in, and embroidery on the surface. The manner in which he put them together had his strong signature style, but the way in which he displayed was somewhat different. The day started with a presentation by Rocky S and Queenie for Giantti.
The day started on a slow note in terms of creative display on the runway, but somewhat gained momentum towards the end. But we could do with much more for sure at this fashion week.I always felt that fashion designers should move away from their predictable nature and guess that’s what designer duo Shyamal and Bhumika chose to do this time.