Milan Fashion run of men's fashion shows for next summer displayed brazen irreverence Monday with Moschino's fluorescent tones, Gucci's slimline tweeds and John Richmond's gangster chic suits.
Franco Moschino's offerings were a riot of colour. Turning back to the 1980s, he showed off an orange trench coat teamed up with white pants, a yellow windbreaker and pink socks peeking out under short pants.
Even the belts and shoes screamed Florida. And the Peace and Love symbol of the fashion house were omnipresent, being either a discreet presence on the back of a coat or emblazoned across a T-shirt.
Gucci turned to classic tweed in black and white and pants tailored so close to the body that they veered between classic elegance and insolence.
But the trousers were in more adventurous colours: vermillion, bright yellow and green. For the evening, it was a classic black tuxedo enlivened by a cherry coloured belt. British stylist John Richmond meanwhile showcased a collection that married an English dandy's wardrobe with that of a Sicilian bandit with dark suits, natty ties and eyeshades to match. And there were trousers in military fatigues.
Valentino, for his part, opted for classic and "still" elegance, showing his designs on mannequins against the backdrop of bare-breasted cabaret dancers covered in fuchsia plumes - the theme being 'Paris Awakens.'
The mood before this year's Milan fashion week was sombre following the sudden death of leading Italian designer Gianfranco Ferre. Ferre died on July 17 aged 62 after a brain haemorrhage and was buried in his birthplace of Legnano near Milan.
A week after his death, the fashion house that bears his name on Sunday presented its summer show for men to a tearful audience that gave him a posthumous ovation. On Tuesday, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Etro, Marni and Trussardi will unveil their collections in Italy's fashion capital on the penultimate day .