While every one speculated that the London fashion week shows, this year will reflect the mood of the Kate-William royal wedding, surprisingly the collection turned out to be all about dead queens, crochet and good old-fashioned rain.
At the Giles show there were silk cocktail dresses that were printed with close ups from Delaroche’s famous portrait of Lady Jane Grey, blindfolded at the scaffold. Daniella Helayel, the designer of Issa, of engagement-photocall-blue-dress-fame, who revived a quintessentially British pheasant-feather motif from an early collection for this season. Jonathan Saunders show was a compelling vision of a slim, below-the-knee silhouette and the rich saturation of colour that comes with the best fabrics. Holly Fulton’s trademark neon-art-deco, Andy-Warhol-at-the-Savoy designs seemed to have an added charge this season. Pringle of Scotland looked utterly gorgeous, a kind of UK version of Chanel in cashmere tweed and fair-isle knits. Crochet hit the catwalk for the first time in decades: the elegant dresses edged with scalloped plastic filled with coloured glycerine at Christopher Kane.