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Returning to roots

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee is now strictly looking at designing Indian wear. He talks business with Nisha Kundnani.

fashion and trends Updated: Jul 04, 2007 17:45 IST
Nisha Kundnani

So, he's been lying low for quite sometime. But the fact remains, whether anyone likes it or not, Sabyasachi Mukherjee's market is so strong that it remains unaffected.

Of late, he may have made statements like, ‘I'm fed up of fashion'. Clearly he's not the sort to mumble words under his breath. He thinks grand, speaks even louder.

So, why am I talking to this astute couturier at this moment? Ah, that's because he's kick-starting a series of ‘trunk' shows with stores across India.. in a bid to compensate for neglecting the domestic market all this while. Over to the designer

Mumbai, here I come
So, why the need to cater to Indian markets now? Answers Mukherjee, "You see what's happened is that I haven't made any effort to strengthen my domestic business for a long time now. I was busy wooing international buyers. Ever since I made a debut at the New York Fashion Week last year. It's time I start addressing the domestic market."

He will showcase his new bridal line with a trunk show tomorrow at Aza. Trunk shows happen worldwide where designers and consumers come face-to-face. "It helps facilitate business, this is a good way to make a comeback in Mumbai," he adds.

Reliving traditions
Mukherjee has also made a conscious decision of designing garments that are strictly Indian. "Yes, I'll be doing a complete Indian collection with salwar kameezes,saris and lehngas for Spring-Summer for the Mumbai Fashion Week. For me, it is a trade opportunity and I'm going to do what sells best," he states.

The designer has carved a good name for himself in the international market, the credit goes to the diffusion wear that he's been showing consistently "I can sit comfortably and produce the same stuff for five years and it will still sell. But at the end of the day I have to be able to face my own soul," he smiles.

Mukherjee will now experiment more with Indian wear, which he thinks isn't easy to do all the time. "Frankly I'm sick of embroideries."

"I know there is a demand for embellished outfits they do sell. An Indian woman cannot ‘not' like embellishments. I feel the urge to break away.. I want to do something that'll satisfy me as a designer. I want to develop my own textiles now," he quips.

Film talk


Mukherjee's career has seen enough success ever since he started out six years ago. He's done everything.. from International Fashion Weeks to Indian films.. to boost his business. His work in Sanjay Leela Bhansali's

Black

and

Baabul

fetched him good words.

"Every designer enters this profession as a hobby and it eventually becomes a business. I started doing films because I needed the money Films also give the kind of recognition every designer craves so badly Baabul's failure is not an . indication that my work was bad.

No film has and none can ever get a lift because of the clothes," he reasons.

After Baabul, he's again designing for Rani Mukherji in Laga Chunri Mein Daag.

Sibling revelry
Meanwhile, Sabyasachi isn't the only one in his family who hogs the limelight. The fashion industry is now talking about his kid sister, Payal, who'll launch her label next year. "My sister isn't influenced by my designing sensibilities.

It's in fact the other way round, he laughs, adding, "She's been my muse ever since I started designing. I won't launch her under my label. She's talented enough to give me competition," he concludes.