Following five days of runway presentations, Paris Menswear Fashion Week came to an end January 22, with emerging trends ranging from flouncing capes to severe military-inspired creations. Tailoring also got supersized as shoulder pads ruled the runway and waistlines were significantly raised.
After making an appearance at Milan Menswear Fashion Week, capes continued to dominate the runways in Paris, with Yves Saint Laurent and Mugler showcasing the trend -- the latter went luxe with silk jacquard varieties. Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto continued the flowing theme with blanket-style coats, while ponchos were big at Miharayasuhiro, Issey Miyake and Dior Homme. No Editions combined a biker influence with black leather versions of the trend.
Inspired by military uniforms, the Dior Homme Fall 2012 presentation was dominated by camouflage colors, while Balmain took inspiration from Russian uniforms for military jackets with metal buttons and Mugler echoed a Marines uniform. Aviator-style hats could be seen at the John Galliano show, while one of the stand-out army-inspired pieces from Paris Menswear Fashion Week had to be the bomber jacket, with Lacroix offering a reversible one, Louis Vuitton presenting shiny varieties of the coat and Viktor & Rolf showing padded versions with puffed shoulders and leather detailing.
While neons were the standout color in Milan, an equally vibrant shade was ubiquitous in Paris, with red making an impact at numerous runway shows. Red ponchos echoed Little Red Riding Hood at Issey Miyake, while Christian Lacroix introduced raincoats in hot red shades and Acne offered red leather trousers and jackets. Other labels embracing the passionate shade included Viktor & Rolf, Givenchy, Lanvin and Junya Watanabe.
While a variety of pant styles could be seen on the runway ranging from wide-leg to sporty and cropped, one of the key emerging trends was that many had a high waist. Trousers came above the waist at Dries Van Noten, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Rick Owens, where models teamed harem-influenced high-waist pants with simple white tops. Meanwhile, at Louis Vuitton popular accessories included high-waisted belts.
Despite a recent trend for slimline silhouettes, accentuated proportions have also been making an impact on the runway; models at the Fall 2012 Thom Browne show could have been mistaken for American sports stars with their bulked-up shoulders. Viktor & Rolf inflated the male form with coats and knits featuring heavily padded shoulders, while puffa jackets at Rick Owens went super-size with enormous shoulders and necklines.