Designers seldom live up to the names they give their collections. But every garment in Farah & Firdoz’s “Cocoon” collection was actually reminiscent of a cocoon.
The way the designers played with their Bhagalpur silks – first using the fabric whole, next allowing free yarn to float from the garments’ loose ends and finally using free yarn in various forms on the garments’ surfaces –was a first on the Lakme Fashion Week runway.
The western silhouettes appeared on the runway with various forms including braids and knots on their surfaces and the loose yarns made each look like a wearable and trendy cocoon. Samar Fidoz’s strength in textiles coupled with his fashion student sister Farah’s style made their collection one of the best this season.
Soumitra Mondal is an unassuming designer with immense talent. This time he presented a collection with a bit of a crushed feel. He threw in embroidery and used khadi and jamdani along with some textures. The effect was feminine and modern, but at the same time it kept tradition intact.
Paromita Banerjee is another designer who gives her collection a feeling of togetherness, with each garment weaving a story from one piece to the next and completing the tale with the last piece on the runway.
She puts together more than one garment to make an ensemble and yet gives her collection an unhurried, simplistic feel. Silhouettes were easy and free in spirit and the ensembles were stylish and simple in their appeal.
Deepika Govind, while giving a south Indian village feel to her entire collection by using small checked fabrics, also gave the collection a sense of chic with the employment of deconstructed seams all the way.
She cleverly mixed the collection with some traditional looks in saris and then went on to distribute a fair amount of contemporary appeal with peplums, dhoti pants, jackets and asymmetric hems.
There was a fair amount of roses in the collection when Krishna Mehta unveiled her offering on the runway this time. The collection restricted its vibrancy on its embroidery and cutwork and let the garments flow free with the designer keeping the lengths all the way down.
The contrast of the embroidery and the garment surfaces, the free Indo-western silhouettes and varied looks that appeared on the runway made this collection one of the best from her stable, yet different from what she had to offer in the past.
At the end of the day, Anita Dongre presented a collection of contemporary women’s wear, with a fair sprinkle of surface treatments. Silhouettes were flowy as well as close to the body and they came in the forms of skirts, palazzos, gowns, jackets with yokes, panels and gathers on different garments.
The collection was young and pleasing to the eye, and the production of the show was somewhat dramatic. The designer also introduced some creations for men.