Paris fashion week kicked off on Tuesday with a bold, masculine collection for women in neutral colours by experimental South Korean designer Moon Young Hee. With Paris playing host to close to 90 ready-to-wear collections and presentations over nine days, the Paris-based designer Hee was among the first on show, sending out a collection of voluminous trousers, ruffle-covered tops and floor-length skirts.
A master of layering, known for her fluid, feminine designs, she limited herself to a restrained palette of black, white, grey and ecru. Speaking after the show through a translator, she said that her collection aimed to combine her trademark style with a more ‘masculine’ silhouette. Elsewhere, vibrant reds and blues dominated at the Ground Zero show.
Trousers, jackets, skirts and mini-dresses came in prints that were almost hallucinogenic, teamed with bright red or blue trousers or ribbed ecru sweaters. Le Moine Tricote stuck to a sombre palette of black and beige with dashes of orange for its winter collection. Long knitted tops edged with frills were teamed with short skirts. Other looks included full skirts with a lace effect and streamlined two-tone dresses.
The talented Belgian trio — Veronique Branquinho, Cedric Charlier and Anthony Vaccarello will present shows on Tuesday.
In fact, US reality television star Kim Kardashian was pictured in one of Charlier’s dresses on Monday. Reminiscing of Belgium, he says, “There’s a freedom of expression there that you don’t find in Paris... where the past influence of couture is always felt. In Belgium, everyone finds their own way.”
Vaccarello, too, has no shortage of famous followers and counts French actor and singer Charlotte Gainsbourg and American model Karlie Kloss among his loyalists.
The highlight of the week is expected to be New York star Alexander Wang’s first show on Thursday for Balenciaga, the illustrious avant-garde fashion house founded in 1919
and now one of the jewels in the crown of the PPR luxury group.
Wang, one of the hottest names in US fashion whose own label is thriving with over 200 stateside outlets, was announced last December as the replacement for Nicolas Ghesquiere whose surprise departure came after 15 years with the French fashion house. All eyes will also be on Raf Simons and Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane.