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A Bazaar for kebabs

india Updated: Oct 12, 2010 01:48 IST
Mayank Austen Soofi
Mayank Austen Soofi
Hindustan Times
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In pre-Partition Delhi, when the Walled City was home to educated and wealthy Muslim gentry (who later went to Pakistan), Urdu Bazaar was a street lined with Urdu-language bookstores. In 2010, most of them have given way to butcheries, chai-khanas and kebab stalls. Fearing that they may give way to other kinds of establishments in the coming decades, we made a record of the market’s roadside kebab stands — for posterity’s sake.

We wanted to find out what kinds of kebabs were on sale, and their price. Obviously, we ate at every stall. Urdu Bazaar faces Jama Masjid’s Gate No. 1. We started from the stall next to Rizwan Book Depot and continued in the direction of Kasturba Gandhi Hospital. With bare hands, the kebabwallas were casually fiddling with their red-hot iron skewers. A young man held a smouldering coal in his palm. Every stand had a table fan, to quicken the roasting time. The kebabs were spicy, greasy and delicious.

Where: Urdu Bazaar, near Jama Masjid (Nearest Metro Station: Chawri Bazaar)
Timings: 7 pm - 2 am daily

Qureshi Kabab Corner
What: Chicken Kebab (R20 per piece), Beef Kebab (buffalo meat; R5 per piece), Beef Tikka (buffalo heart;
R5 per piece)
Seller: Mohammed Erhad Qureshi
Founder: Abdul Ghani Qureshi
Since: 1970

Lalu Kababee
What: Seekh Kebab
(buffalo meat, R5 per piece), Tikka Kebab
(buffalo meat; R5 per piece), Beef biryani
(buffalo meat; R80 per kg)
Seller: Mohammed Habib
Founder: Noor Mohammed aka Lalu Kebabi
Since: 1980

Lalu Kebabi
What: Seekh Kebab (Buffalo meat; R5), Boti kebab (buffalo meat; R5), Shammi kebab (buffalo meat; R25 per piece)
Seller: Mohammed Imran
Founder: Noor Mohammed aka Lalu Kebabi
Since: 1970

Tajuddin & bros. Kebab and Tikka
What: Boti Kebab (R5 per piece), Seekh Kebab (R5 per piece); Chicken Tikka (R30 per piece)
Seller: Tajuddin Kebabi
Founder: Mohammed Zaheeruddin
Since: 1970

Al-Nisar Kawabi
Seekh Kebab (Buffalo meat; R5 per piece), Boti Kebab (buffalo meat; R5 per piece), Cut Roll (R25 per piece)
Seller: Mohammed Dilshad Qureshi
Founder: Nisar Ahmad
Since: 1990