The good news is that Vorakul Homepirom, otherwise known as 'Chef Pu', who for 20 years worked his magic at the classy Four Seasons Hotel in Chiang Mai, is producing the most delectable dishes at Thai High in the Ambawatta Complex in New Delhi's Mehrauli. The bad news is that he is here only for a few months.
So if you are a Thai food aficionado, it might be a good idea to quickly head for this classy rooftop restaurant. Cheek by jowl with the Qutab Minar, its ambience and view were widely acclaimed in its previous incarnation, Thai Wok. The authorities shut that down three years ago.
Now resurrected as Thai High, it remains a memorable visual experience, with its excellent use of potted plants, ficus trees and floodlights. And how do you beat a floodlit Qutab for a backdrop? The added bonus now is truly outstanding food, along with reasonable prices - at least so far.
Start with the Tom Sab Kraphaw Talae, a sharp clear soup made of crab, prawn and fish with basil and mushroom, or the Tam Yam Kai, a spicy clear chicken soup. They are truly excellent. But it is in the starters department that the diner quickly realises he is in for an exceptional treat.
The Yam Phak Krob, the signature crispy vegetable salad, was simply superb, as were the fried squid rings with basil or Plamur Krob Phad Kraphaw, and the grilled chicken strips with soya and lemon grass - Kai Yang Takrai. The fish in banana leaf with a nutty sauce, Pla Hoa Baitong, was merely good.
For the main course, try the deep fried red snapper with a sour chilly sauce or the stir-fried prawn with crushed black pepper and capsicum and not to ignore the greens, the kylin in oyster sauce. It would be hard to top them in taste and quality. The flat rice noodles with tamarind and chilli are also highly recommended.
With a profusion of good restaurants sprouting in the city, it is not easy beating the competition. But if you want a complete visual and culinary experience, for the moment Thai High is managing to do just that. A meal for two should cost around Rs.3,000.