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Atop the pile of dead

Neha Dara recounts her journey across some of the hillsides in Himachal Pradesh in a self-driven auto-rickshaw.

india Updated: Sep 07, 2007 14:05 IST
Neha Dara

Who would've though that cooking and eating a packet of Maggi could be such a complicated affair? But the truth is that at 13,000 feet, the two-minute-noodles take a whole longer than that to cook. And demand a lot of gymnastics.

First, you have to pray for the rain to stop. Then, you have to shelter the stove behind a pile of rocks. When that proves inadequate, the only option is to use your body as a shield from the cold biting wind.

Even so, the flame goes out every 30 seconds, and you have to stay alert and re-light it quickly. Eventually, the water boils and you toss the Maggi in. A longer eventually later, it's ready to eat.

Taking the food out on a plate is a bad idea. There, on the top of the mountain in the middle of the night, it cools down almost instantly. The only way to eat it warm is for all five campers to sit around the stove and eat directly from the kettle, passing around the sole fork.

In the beginning was the sun
When you've just driven 3,200 km across two countries in a red three-wheel autorickshaw, driving on one of the highest motorable roads in the world seems like the next logical thing to do. Which is why, when we reached Manali at the end of the Monsoon Rickshaw Run with a day to spare, we decided to head up to Rohtang Pass.

Almost no one who we met or spoke to thought that the autorickshaws could go up the steep, barely-there roads. But then, almost no one had thought we could make the trip from Kolkata to Manali either. Without falling off a mountain, being stranded without petrol, having a major breakdown or getting caught in torrential rain. None of those things had happened. How could this be any different?

Visitor information



Getting there


Take a jeep up from Manali; the trip takes roughly two and a half hours by car.

The cabdrivers are always in a hurry, but insist on stopping along the way at least once to enjoy the views.

When there is more ice there during winter you can try different sports like skiing and sledging.

Is camping a bad idea?

Only if you try doing it in the monsoons, like we did, or during the winter.

Torrential rains and blizzards are best avoided. Despite our misadventures, we loved being on that mountain in the night, far away from all others.

The spot where we camped was 17 km beyond Rohtang, down the Spiti Valley fork.

You can pick up supplies like instant noodles and boiled eggs at Rohtang Pass. Make sure you get some ready food that doesn't need to be cooked, just in case.

If you're thinking of carrying two torches, take four. You're likely to lose one, like we did, and the batteries on the other will die. Matches are no good either, carry lighters. In plural.

Tempting fate
When we set out from Manali, the day was cold and clear. We fuelled up at the last petrol pump out of the hill station. According to our calculations, a full tank would be just enough to get us about 10 km past Rohtang Pass to a place where we could camp, and then back to the petrol pump again.

For safety, we filled up a jerry can with extra fuel, which went with Chris and Owen who were accompanying us in their autorickshaw.

The drive up took over four hours. Many times, we had to get off the rickshaw and push it up steep inclines, then run and jump into it as the one behind the wheel kept it moving. But the views were worth the labour. Nothing could dampen the exhilaration we felt when we looked down at the curving steep road behind us. As we went higher, the vegetation became sparse, and dotted with patches of white ice.

Then, a landslide blocked our path and it seemed we would have to turn back. But the workers managed to clear enough of the road to give us a space to squeeze through.

Twenty minutes before Rohtang, we passed a wide waterfall that had frozen over. Behind the hard packed ice, we could still hear the water flowing. It seemed magical.

The Rohtang Pass that we finally reached was a much-diminished version of the mountainside covered in hard muddy ice that I remembered from a previous trip. But the place was busy as ever, with tourists posing in front of the ‘zero-point' sign, eating corn on the cob, and tossing empty wrappers by the side of the road.

We decided to move on quickly to a place without crowds.

Watch what you wish for
It started drizzling just as we finished setting up camp on a grassy hillside 17 km beyond Rohtang Pass. Pitching the tents was an adventure in itself, considering that only two of the five people trying to do it had ever been camping before.

A horse grazing on the mountainside tried taking a bite out of our tent with its camouflage-print brown and green leaves. It looked truly mystified by these strange leaves that it couldn't get a grip on.

From the place we had pitched our tents, the hillside rolled on gently for a bit then dropped sharply, a small river flowing by in front. Beyond that was another range of mountains, brown and barren with snow-capped peaks. At the highest point on our hillside was a pole adorned with many hundred strings of prayer flags, each fluttering in the wind with an urgency.

Owen, the ever-genial Brit, stuck out his palm to catch the rain and said, "Is this the monsoon… where is all that torrential rain I heard of ?" We shushed him and looked around anxiously. And sure enough, the heavens decided to oblige him and fulfil his wish.

What looked pleasant and picturesque in the warm sunlight, became majestic and awe-full when the sky became overcast and all was shadows. With the rain came the cold winds and the temperature dropped suddenly.

All five of us huddled inside the larger tent, listening to the raindrops breaking loudly on the cloth over our heads, trying to calculate just when the waterproof material would become to wet to be waterproof anymore, or whether the other tent would survive the strong winds.

It was past 11pm when the rain finally stopped and we were hungry and very, very cold. Stepping out of the tent on to a mountainside to the darkness and the realisation that there was no soul around for miles (at least none that we knew of) was a strange feeling.

We scram bled around to cook ourselves a satisfying meal of instant noodles and tea and sat around the charcoal (more for the feeling of warmth then any actual warmth they gave) exchanging stories.

Murphy's Law* (Explained below)


Morning couldn't come quickly enough. With the first sign of light, I started to unzip the tent an inch at a time, hoping to slowly acclimatise myself to the cold outside. At least, it wasn't raining.

We quickly packed up camp and made ready to leave. But just as we finished, it started to rain again.

If you thought driving up the Himalayas in an autorickshaw was tough, picture this. A cold morning with even colder winds and rain like drops of ice.

Our autorickshaw may have brought us so far, but it was no protection from the rain and it wasn't long before we and all the five layers of clothing each of us had on were completely wet.

The barely-there roads became streams of muddy water. Visibility was low. If that wasn't trouble enough, we ran out of fuel.

The boys, who were driving ahead of us just then, didn't realise that we had stopped and drove off with the spare fuel. It was important to keep moving, so we pushed the rickshaw up inclines and free-wheeled down slopes.

We'd travelled about five kilometres this way by time Chris and Owen realised we were missing and came.

Pouring the fuel into the tank turned our fingers blue. As it evaporated from our fingers, it made the already biting cold we were in seem like child's play. But by this time, we were beyond caring. We just needed to get off this mountain.

We drove like we'd never driven before in our 15 days with the autorickshaw. We'd been caught in torrential rain, and stuck without petrol.

The only reason we didn't end up down a hillside somewhere is that some magical hand must have been guiding us, because we drove at a speed of 35 kmph down that hill, slowing down for nothing, not potholes or hairpin turns.

Distant dream
Back in Manali, after a warm shower and with a cup of hot tea in our hands, the events of the previous night and the morning already seemed distant and unreal.

Now that we were dry and warm and well-fed, we could laugh about our adventures and file them under ‘experience of a lifetime'.

As we'd kept reminding ourselves while we shivering up on that mountain, some things are better in the retelling.

*: ‘Whatever can go wrong will go wrong, at the worst possible time, in the worst possible way'

(Neha surprised everyone, including herself, by deciding to drive an autorickshaw cross-country. She's a member of the HT Pullouts team and the anchor of Away & Beyond).