Fur made a comeback on Saturday at New York Fashion Week but it also had a new rival.
There were more fur coats than in recent seasons on the runways of Peter Som, Prabal Gurung and Adam by Adam Lippes. But Mongolian lambswool a fuzzy, almost featherlike material emerged as a popular alternative.
Som showed almost muppet-like versions of the wool in hot pink and electric blue, but the fabric was also on display at Adam and as trim on dresses and shirts by other designers.
Fur has been more rare in recent seasons as luxury turned more discreet, so lambswool may be a more acceptable alternative. In Som's rendering, it still makes a statement, without being in-your-face luxurious.
RAG & BONE
The cool girls will probably be wearing a lot of menswear styles in the fall. Rag & Bone, which has become a bellwether brand for downtown hipsters, debuted a collection Friday that was rooted in tailored suits but stayed quirky and feminine thanks to tweaks in proportion and styling.
The first model on the runway wore a combination of waistcoat, workshirt and kilt, and she was followed by a camouflage anorak, a plaid shirtdress and what appeared to be an unfinished blazer. (Interestingly, this wasn't the first literally thread-baring jacket shown during these previews.)
Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville showed a skill with sweaters that could turn into highly salable garments, and made a good case for leather leggings and purse pouches that hang from belts like a stylish fanny pack.
The designers also confirmed some of the trends that seem to be emerging, including layers and menswear, but also military-inspired styles, heavily textured garments and a dominant palette of black and gray.
Peter Som took a hiatus from the runway to regroup his fashion label after a financial rough patch, and he was missed, judging by the crowd who came to watch his return on Saturday. Heavy hitters from the major luxury department stores as well as healthy contingents from the magazines were treated to a fall collection unlike anything else they've seen so far during this round of style previews.
There was color lots of purple, green and acid yellow! There were luxe furs! There was a vintage vibe and ladylike silhouettes! The explosion of prints and exotic trims, including mink, feathers, pearlized-petal pailettes and distressed metallics, was dizzying at times, but also invigorating. It was like all the models got dressed in the dark and, in the process, broke all the fashion rules about what goes with what. Most of the time, the outfits showed why rules should be broken.
Nicole Miller must have always had a tough spirit inside her how else could she have lasted so long in the fashion business? _ but it's only in her most recent collections that you see that aggressiveness in the clothes.