He has announced plans to launch a jewellery line. And if you find that surprising coming from Sabyasachi Mukherjee, he states that he will be launching “a very personal jewellery line in the next one year.” Right now, he’s at the jewellery exhibition of Krsala, a couture line from Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri, at Kolkata’s Taj Bengal.
Although he has been awake since 4 am, he talks enthusiastically about his jewellery plans: “Like my clothes, the jewellery will be traditional. I don’t like fusion, to me that’s tacky. Today, traditional is modern. It is also generally thought that gold doesn’t look trendy.. but I want to change that misconception..” Sabyasachi elaborates that simplicity has been his signature style but he has not always been able to stick to it because “India has never believed in the less-is-more concept. But I hope to return to that zone.”
He acknowledges the power of accessorising. “How do you set apart one black dress from another? Accessories create that distinctive look. Karma is what gets you through. For instance, today, the colours black, red or white can’t save a marriage (Sabyasachi’s bridal collection has included several black lahengas). Thankfully, many people nowadays think like me,” he says.
On traditional emroidery, his take is,“Initially I didn’t know much about it but I have understood it over the years. Now, I’m working with weavers in Varanasi, south India and rural Bengal.” He doesn’t shy away from Bollywood. He will be styling for Mani Ratnam’s next film with Abhishek and Aishwarya Rai Bachchan. “I have a great rapport with them.. it should be a fun experience,” he states.
The designer will be participating in the New York Fashion Week in September, where he represents India. “The theme for my collection there is inspired by exotic birds and the works of painters Paul Gauguin and Emil Nolde.
It’s a completely handcrafted line. Very Indian in its technique and craftsmanship but it doesn’t look it,” he says. “I’m glad that silhouettes are finally moving from the frumpy to super-sexy. My collection will probably have many exotic mini-tennis dresses.” Another trend-setter on the way?