The popular worldwide tradition of restaurants opting for a lighter menu with the onset of summers is catching up fast in Delhi. But most of those who claim to be doing so in the capital normally stop at adding a couple of new summer cooler beverages.
Being successfully able to experiment with the summer version of an essentially hot cuisine like Indian, and to be able to pull it off in a contemporary avatar, is no mean task. A place that has managed to do it beautifully is Indian Accent at The Manor. On an invite from the restaurant, renowned for creating a blend of global ingredients and traditional Indian cooking techniques, I and a few foodie colleagues went with the usually high expectations. But Executive Chef Manish Mehrotra surpassed those and more, with a truly exquisite spread made out of simple, seasonal ingredients.
We started with the pièce de résistance in the new summer menu — Tandoori Foie Gras with Amla Murabba and dehydrated Paprika Pineapple (Rs 1,295). The use of the latter was unusual but lent just the desired crispness that one craves for, with a foie gras delicacy. My vegetarian dining companions loved their Panko Crusted Bharwan Mirch with a smooth goat cheese mousee filling (Rs 345).
What didn’t quite do the trick for us was the Roast Scallop paired with Gobhi Musallam (Rs 365), but that could also be because none of us on the table particularly enjoy cauliflower in any form. Another interesting starter that got everyone’s vote was the Organic Kegg Egg Fritters (Rs 375), for the sheer intrigue with which we tasted that organic egg and also for the unique way that it was paired with a sure summer favourite salad, kakdi.
A friend who later revisited the place and sampled the Ash Roast Sweet Potato with Crisp Okra (Rs 325) couldn’t stop raving about it. The main course saw us gorging on the Achari New Zealand Lamb Shank (Rs 1,350) and Tadka Summer Vegetables (Rs 645), both of which were great. We would have loved to mess with the recipe of pan fried Australian John Dory (Rs 925) and turn it a bit spicier, but curbed the instinct.
Dessert after such an elaborate spread was both unwarranted and not advisable, but we still went for Fresh Sugarcane with Crushed Ice and Three Liqueurs (Rs 425). Thank God we did.
Where: Indian Accent at The Manor, 77, Friends Colony (West);
Avg meal for two: Rs 2,500 (plus taxes)