The surprise package on the third day of Lakmé Fashion Week was Nupur Kanoi, who surpassed expectations with a very likeable new range. Almost every piece she showed was covetable. Earlier in the day, young Dhruv Kapur showed a minimal, all-black set of well-constructed garments. A few hours after the show, he admitted to us to having lost track of the number of buyers that had approached him after the show. Payal Khandwala stuck to her aesthetic and received mixed reactions for her show. The most evident update from last season’s show was her addition of saris.
There was also plenty of excitement leading up to Amit Aggarwal’s return to the ramp, and the designer didn’t disappoint. In what we think is his most commercial collection yet, he showed some beautiful designs that retained his trademark futuristic vibe and yet, were wearable.
There was plenty to cringe at too. Pria Kataria Puri did a not-so-impressive job of introducing menswear for the first time. As for Vikram Phadnis, the gold theme (since his show was sponsored by a relevant product) completely killed even the few nice garments that he’d created.
While Masaba Gupta recently created an armhole sari, Payal Khandwala showed a similar top, which gives the illusion of a dupatta. Swap the skirt for a pair of pencil trousers and you have a winner.
In the middle of Amit Aggarwal’s show, six models hit the ramp in the same outfit. The structured, voluminous skirts were part of a collection that won acclaim. Of course, you need a lot of courage to pull off something like this.
Long, exposed zippers
At DRVV (black outfit), we saw them in menswear and womenswear. Then, at Nupur Kanoi (red) and Payal Khandwala’s (blue) show, we saw them again. While the latter used them only in a few pieces, Kanoi employed them very effectively in her much-appreciated line. Long, exposed zippers are here to stay.
What we don’t like
Yes, we Indian women love our gold. No, we don’t love everything to be only in that one shade. Vikram Phadnis may argue that he didn’t have much choice with colour — gold being the theme his sponsors gave him — but even the designs and most silhouettes were disappointing. They ranged from bland to ostentatious.
It’s the first time Pria Kataria Puri showed menswear, and it should be the last unless she goes in for a dramatic overhaul. The garments, very much the counterparts of her designs for women, just didn’t cut it — neither the prints, nor the silhouettes. Or maybe we just don’t like men in harem pants and kaftans.