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HindustanTimes Wed,24 Sep 2014

Emerging designers most impressive

Vinod Nair, Hindustan Times  Mumbai, August 06, 2012
First Published: 14:17 IST(6/8/2012) | Last Updated: 19:14 IST(6/8/2012)

Talented newcomers who debuted through the Gen Next platform last season further strengthened their position on the ramp on the second day. At the showing that was called the Emerging Designers until recently (LFW skipped the title this season but the showing was by the same designers who started last season), some of the best collections came to the fore.

Aarti Vijay Gupta’s collection of western silhouettes with pencil-like drawings and colour charts was novel and stood out on the runway. Nikhil Thampi played around with silhouettes in interesting ways. His corsets, fully embellished slim pants and crushed silks were particularly interesting. Yogesh Choudhary, who played with stripes in various forms last season at his debut showing, chose to show Pac-Man prints this time. The concept of the game was cleverly executed. Exaggerated sizes and carefully chosen fabrics such as organic cotton, khadi, silk and wool made for a lot of interesting styles on the runway.

Payal Khandwala stuck with her signature style of using fabrics with various techniques to create her silhouettes while leaving the surface as it is, like she did last season. The result was a stylish and comfortable collection. Roma Narsinghani too showed her collection, but definitely can do better. Pernia Qureshi’s ‘An Evening in Paris’ made its debut. While in terms of styling the collection somewhat had appeal, the finishing part left a lot to be desired. If she can percolate her personal choice of wardrobe into her designing, she can come out with a collection full of appeal next season. Drashta started off well with clean, minimalist looks and should have continued with that.

Priyadarshini Rao came out with a stunning collection that was not only perfectly made, but also used an array of fabrics with varied detailing. Colours moved from bright to off-whites in chiffon, cotton and silk. The emphasis on textiles and what an able designer can do to bring out the best in fashion and style was evident in her creations.

The day ended with a ‘minimum is maximum in style’ kind of presentation by Wendell Rodricks, where the designer started with a riot of bright colours and graduated to his signature crisp whites. The use of fabrics and tone-on-tone embellishment on various drapes and styles was impressive.


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