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HindustanTimes Thu,31 Jul 2014

Glam up respecting your skin

Debasmita Ghosh, Hindustan Times  New Delhi, March 04, 2013
First Published: 17:26 IST(4/3/2013) | Last Updated: 02:21 IST(5/3/2013)

Often find yourself looking dull in a party even though you’ve applied the best cosmetics? The problem could be a mismatch of makeup shades and your skin tone, say beauty experts. “People with the same skin colour may not necessarily have the same skin tone. Determine your skin tone and go for a colour palette that matches your tone,” says beauty expert Nidhi Khurana. “The right makeup shades applied accurately can not only fledge your problems areas and scars, but also enhance your features giving you that perfect diva look,” says beauty expert Richa Aggarwal. Now, if that leaves you flummoxed and scouting for the perfect makeup that’ll suit your skin tone, take help from experts here, who’ve made things simpler by suggesting all the right shades for you.

WARM TONE
Dark Base: Go for a water-based foundation as dark skin tends to look more oily, so using cream foundation will worsen the skin even more. Cleanse, tone, moisturise and scrub your skin, and then apply foundation, and then powder to create a smooth base. Avoid cosmetics that are honey-based as it could make dark skin look yellowish and pale.
Eyes: Go for dark colours like browns, prunes, copper and burgundy. A dust of translucent powder over eye shadows is more than enough for a smooth glow for an evening party. Only natural and clear colour mascara is good for this skin tone. Skip the eyeliner as for dark complexion it may spoil the look of eyes completely if not applied properly.
Blush: Go for rose, deep orange and coral shade blush, and avoid brown and peach shades. For a very dark skin tone, one can choose dark rose for the day and plums, wine and bronze shades for evening. For night, shimmers with gold tone blends well.
Lips: Avoid frost finish lipsticks and go for matte finish ones. Opt for browns, burgundy, berry shades, plums, beige, soft pink and gold. Chocolate and coffee also looks great on dark skin tone, especially after sunset. Never apply shades such as orange on dark toned lips.
 -By beauty expert Nidhi Khurana, Brush Strokes by Nidhi

DuskyBase: The base should be light and shear. Choose oil/ water or powder-based foundation according to your skin type. However, the best one to go for is silicon-based foundation as it really works well on a dusky complexion. Do not use a concealer as that’ll make you look fake and very made up. Instead, go for skin tone foundation. Apart from face, don’t forget to use it over neck, ears, back of your neck and all other exposed area. There can be no bigger faux pas than uneven makeup. For an evening outing, before makeup, apply an eliminating primer base (transparent base) for instant glow. Over the base, apply sheer loose powder.
Eyes: Safe shades for dusky skin tone are earthy shades such as copper, brown, cocoa and bronze. You can play with coloured eye pencils. Emerald and turquoise are the most trendy shades this spring and it looks great on the dusky tone. For an evening party, kohl kajal works wonders for dusky eyes. You can also go for false eyelashes or hazel-coloured eye lenses. Finish with a thick coat of mascara.
Lips: If you want to play safe, use earthy tones which give you a natural look. If you want to experiment, you can go for floral colours over earthy shades. For a dinner outing, you could even play with neon colours like bright pink or ruby red. If you are not comfortable with these bright colours, you can subdue it with a coloured lip gloss.
 -By beauty expert Aashmeen Munjaal, Star Salon

Must Haves
Creme Touch nude lipstick from Colorbar R450
Lakme Absolute Baked blush Night Sheen R550


COOL TONE
FairBase: You need not go for a very heavy foundation, else you might end up looking like a clown. Be it day or night, imperfections show easily on fairer skin. Apply a cream concealer and a tinted moisturiser to camouflage flare-ups. The best is to opt for a BB (blemish balm) cream.
Blush: Enhance your cheeks with a subtle touch of soft pink of apricot blush. For the evening, go cheeky with a pinch of dusty rose or a baby pink blush on. Complete the look by using bronzer on your T Zone and along your hair and jaw line to contour your face.
Lips: Pop-up lipstick is best suited for girls with fair skin. Go bold with red, orange, magenta or the current hot pick — oxblood.
Eyes: Bright lips along with subtle eye makeup is quite in, so to keep the focus on your lips leave your eyes natural and simple with only a thick coat of mascara. Skip the kohl. Nude shades of eye shadow is best for the night. Blend it well into the socket line. For an evening out, filling in the eyebrows is the sure shot way to sharpen your features and frame the face.
 -By beauty expert Richa Aggarwal, Cleopatra Spa n Salon

Must Haves
Mary Kay Creme lipstick Pink Passion R550
Very Me Double Trouble Eye pencil — Mocha Loca R229
Lakme Absolute’s tinted gloss coral shine R450
Oriflame’s Very Me Fat Lash Mascara R298

Determine your skin tone
When talking of skin colour, skin undertone is often shortened to simply skin tone. There are many skin colours, but only two basic skin tones — warm and cool. Once you know your skin tone, you can select your makeup shades easily. You needn’t go to a dermatologist to ascertain your skin tone. There are simple tricks at home that’ll help you. “Look at your wrist and see what’s the colour of your veins. If your veins appear blue, then you have a cool skin tone. If they’re green, it means you have yellow undertones which makes you a warm skin toned person,” says beauty expert Meenakshi Dutt. Beauty expert Richa Aggarwal suggests yet another simple way to determine your skin tone. “Wear a white shirt and look in the mirror. Stand in natural light as yellow light or fluorescent light will reflect off your skin. See if your skin appears to have more yellow-red (warm skin tones) or more blue-pink (cool skin tones). Remember that the skin tone is always not your skin colour. It is the colour that is under the skin colour that reflects against white,” says Aggarwal.


Makeup tricks
If your skin colour is very dark, ensure that your lip colour matches your eye makeup. Do not make the mistake of clashing your eye colour with lipstick.

Before starting your makeup, go for a nice homemade fruit pack massage. Leave it for half an hour, it will make you look and feel fresh.

On dusky skin tone, never use silver tones or greyish tones. It makes your complexion appear dark.


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