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HindustanTimes Sat,25 Oct 2014

Sneak peek into what's in store at Lakme Fashion Week

Shweta Mehta Sen, Hindustan Times  Mumbai, August 13, 2014
First Published: 18:25 IST(13/8/2014) | Last Updated: 19:01 IST(13/8/2014)

With five-day fashion extravaganza, Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014, all set to start next week in Mumbai, we ask some participating designers what to expect from their new ranges.

BIG NAMES
Anita Dongre
Theme: Dongre’s fictional muse, Nayantara — The Jaipur Bride, features again in her new range, titled India Modern. It is inspired by the grandeur of the Mughal era.
In the details: “The collection will see the use of richer fabrics like raw silk, lots of traditional Indian techniques and fabrics like bandhini, leheriya, gota pati, zardozi and dori work, interpreted in contemporary styles, appealing to the evolved sartorial tastes of a modern bride-to-be,” says the designer. Fitted crop tops with lehengas, tailored jackets with slim pants, and lots of hand-embroidered gowns dot the range. Colours range from fresh neutrals to rich jewel-tones like peacock blues, corals and reds.

Amit Aggarwal
Theme: There will be a lot of tribal influences, be it weaving techniques, striped tattoos or almost-3D jewellery. The collection is a modern interpretation of these ideas.
In the details: Expect washed matt silks, heavy crêpe de Chine and duchess satin for structure, with tulle adding softness. Saturated and deep tones, with an overall accent of black, are Aggarwal’s key colours. “This time, my clothes are more fitted, and the structuring is minimised. I’ve paired couture dresses with menswear details to blend androgyny with feminine silhouettes,” he says.

THE DEBUTANTS
Neha Agarwal
Theme: Her theme, Mille Fleurs (a thousand flowers), celebrates the regal petit point embroidery of the 17th century — a favourite leisure activity of Madame de Maintenon, the second wife of King Louis XIV of France.
In the details: Tussar, ahimsa, gicha and muga silk will be seen with quilted details, geometric cross-stitched embroidery and a colour palette of dark as well as vibrant hues. “This royal artistry was confined to only tapestries, borders and motifs till date. Mine is a modern collection of embroidered dresses, where Indian intricacy meets French aristocracy,” says Agarwal.

Ridhi Mehra
Theme: Mystical Nuit is Mehra’s take on the Illuminated Night Parade. It marks her extension into more westernised silhouettes.
In the details: The colour palette reflects hues of the sky — black and blue — along with beige. “The embroidery is a mix of resham and bead work, highlighted with zardozi. I’ve used fabrics like raw silk, chiffon, silk georgette and net. Metallic belts are one of the key elements,” says the designer.

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Some designs from the upcoming fashion week

NEW EXPERIMENTS
SVA by Sonam & Paras Modi
Theme: Titled Maestro, it represents the tenacity as well as flamboyance of a Spanish matador. “Look out for black and white geometrics that are inspired by tiles seen in Spanish monuments. When juxtaposed against traditional pita work, zardozi and handcrafted pleats and appliqué, the resulting silhouette is fiercely regal with a raw, edgy appeal,” says the duo.
In the details: Rich silk, velvet, satin, thick cotton Lycra and georgette are part of the line. Expect custom prints in stark tones of black, white and gold, with a hint of emerald and wine.

Arpita Mehta
Theme: Starlight — an ode to the designer’s grandmother — who she considers her guiding light — is inspired by her favourite cocktail looks, blended with a contemporary touch.
In the details: Luxurious fabrics like tabi silk, raw silk, nets and flat chiffons dominate in hues of black, grey, oyster and a hint of pink. Expect knee-length silk jackets, cut-out blouses, layered anarkalis and ghungroos in dull silver, with body chains. “I’ve also created a special embroidery called ‘buttonflower’, which has 3D thread-work flower appliqués over mirror flowers, for dual effect. There’s also some foil work to add texture,” says Mehta. 
 
COMEBACK KIDS
Swati Vijaivargie
Theme: Inspired by the traditional clothing of Hmong women, the collection pays homage to Vietnamese culture. The country’s history is represented in geometric lotuses and appliquéd dragon motifs.
In the details: Teal, Mexican pink, tangerine and emerald green are among the colours you’re likely to spot. Fabrics — predominantly silks of different weights and textures — are tie-dyed. “The key inspiration of the collection is drawn from Vietnamese textiles and the patterns noted in their clothing and architecture. The prints are created predominantly by using shibori, a pleat-and-bind technique. Handmade silk buttons and quilting form the base for the texture and embroidery,” says the designer.

Asa Kazingmei
Theme: The title, Changvei, draws from the name of a shield used by Naga warriors during battles.
In the details: Thick denim, leather and rivets represent the toughness of the shield. “Black is used heavily, as it represents my angst against chaos, and a desire to fight back,” says Kazingmei. While women’s lowers are flowy and transparent, the men can look out for drop crotches and ultra-low waists. Upper garments will be more structured and body- hugging. “Styling will use leather gloves, boots and harnesses to complete the look. There are also hair accessories like carved wooden hair pins, and dream catchers,” he adds.


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