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HindustanTimes Fri,22 Aug 2014

We came back sass-isfied

Sarit Ray, Hindustan Times  Mumbai, April 12, 2013
First Published: 13:30 IST(12/4/2013) | Last Updated: 15:39 IST(12/4/2013)

What: The Sassy Spoon 
Where: Ground Floor, Express Towers, Nariman Point
Call: 2288 8222
What’s on the menu: European, continental and fusion cuisine
Drinking: Yes
Smoking: Yes

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Mumbai is in the midst of a restaurant-opening spree. So, when a new European-continental joint launches, it needs more than a catchy name to stand out in the crowd. Fortunately, The Sassy Spoon doesn’t disappoint. It’s located on the ground floor of a typical glass-and-concrete office building, yet it manages to create an ambience eminiscent of a French brasserie. The outside area is casual, with fairy-lights-wrapped bird cages (and fans, thank God). But we recommend sitting inside. A classy all-glass wall with wispy white curtains is offset by a wall stacked with trunks in all conceivable sizes and colours.

Our first impression of the menu is that it’s a bit unbalanced. While the mains stretch for five pages, the appetisers list is short. We call for the Nutty Ricotta Ravioli with White Truffle Butter and Shaved Black Truffle (R525). It’s impeccably cooked, with the right amount of sauce, and crunch from the nuts. However, with just five bite-sized portions (that’s more than R100 a spoon!), we find it overpriced. Next, we call for the Char-grilled Tenderloin Porcini Crème Brulee with Glazed Carrots, Potato Galette and Split Tarragon in Garlic Jus (R785; and yes, we ran out of breath trying to say that). We ask for our steak medium-to-well-done. What we get, however, are two pieces of medium and two of almost-too-well-done. That apart, the dish is amazing. The meat oozes sauce, and we’d be glad if someone just served us a plate of those glazed carrots.

Rachel’s Prawns with Maple Chilly Gouda and Crusty Brun (R825), served on a pan with bread, is an honest, rustic dish, with its roots perhaps in a peasant’s hearth. It tastes slightly pungent and has bold flavours. Cordon Bleu-trained Chef Rachel Goenka’s speciality is dessert, the menu claims. The Caramel Peanut Tart (R345) proves why. It’s filled with hot, nutty caramel and comes with a homemade caramel ice cream. Warning: you better have people to share this with, or you’ll feel terrible for not finishing it.

What we like
The food
The ambience

We don’t like
Overpriced appetisers


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