AS MINIMALIST TONES GO, THESE LOOK GREAT
Asmita Aggarwal (HT City)

The emphasis of the AS (read Ashish Soni) ready-to-wear line this year is on modern, wearable clothes – mostly whites with dabs of skin and indigo tones in denim. “The clothing is inspired by all things running quickly, like thoughts,” says Soni, whose LIFW show is slated for Monday 9 p.m, at Taj Palace, adding that “the common denominator of the collection is the urban panache, fashion for everyday wear.”

Showy stitches, minimal buttons, simple and clean styling all adds up to a minimal, chic but contemporary look. “I haven’t fallen under the spell of the peasant look,” says Soni, a British School product, adding, “there is a lot of denim in its various avatars from dirty, naturally faded and softened to that with a stiffened and rinsed look.”

Younger sister Smita has joined hands with big bro and Ashish gives her credit for the fresh energy that she brings in terms of designs and getting the look just right. “Smita, a Pearl Academy graduate joined me in ’95 and we launched AS in ’98. That was before the idea of fashion week was discussed. The best part is that she is able to execute my ideas dexterously,” says Ashish. “But the emphasis this time is on put-it-together-yourself.”

So you can almost pick up anything and team it up with a variety of options. “It’s the store concept presented on the ramp, where you can exercise your individual choice. Team up a ruffled blouse with a low raider trouser,” says Ashish an NIFT graduate who has worked with Rohit Bal before launching his own men’s wear line in ’91.

Ashish has extensively used cotton, linen, fake leather as well as lycra for that comfortable feel. “The concept is to wear it to the movie, beach and to work, so it’s easy to manage. There is less focus on embroidery and embellishments so it’s minimalist in that sense,” says Ashish whose collection is priced between Rs 2,000 and Rs 5,000.

There are a lot of delicate gypsy ruffles, sheer fabrics and delicate trimmings and plunging necklines. As the denim is in the spotlight it is used in a myriad shades – ranging from the most frayed to the textured surfaces. “I’ve even used zardozi on denims, fringed pants for women, as well as hand embroidered kaftan tops in untreated denim, jackets with dot patterned linings and drawstring pants,” says Ashish who also has a nude collection in desert tones from sandy to sunny yellow.

Terming it as a mature collection which has evolved over time, he says, “It’s a western silhouette which has been Indianised to suit the mood of today,” before signing off.