Canvas of earthly hues | Travel - Hindustan Times
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Canvas of earthly hues

BySonia Nazareth, Coonoor
Dec 11, 2010 08:18 PM IST

Coonoor, defined by its chirpy birds, pristine blue skies, red soil and dew-laden leaves, is not far from a Van Gogh idyll

 This summer, I wasinvited to spend afew days withfriends in a farmhousein UpperCoonoor. All Iknew about the town wasthat it was regarded by peopleto be a perfect hilly getaway."Ah, Coonoor...", theywould sigh, in tones otherwisereserved for an Indianclassical music concert or thestone temples of Hampi.I went, not looking for anythingin particular.

Usual destinations
Rejuvenate me was my challengeto this pretty town ofred tile rooftops, surroundedby hills and tea and coffeeplantations. There were, ofcourse, the usual attractions:A stop at Sim's park -- apeaceful oasis of manicuredlawns and more than 1000plant species -- where childrenand lovers frolic amidmagnolia, tree ferns andcamellia. A potter aroundDolphin's nose, oddly named,for the chief inhabitants ofthis lookout point are horsesand monkeys. The last andperhaps most remarkable ofthe holy trinity of things to dois a visit to the Tea Factoryfor a guided tour of the fragrantprocessing plant.

Outside the factory, a shopkeepercalls with characteristicpersuasion in his voice,"Spice up your life inCoonoor." At the shops thatpepper this street, a wholerange of spices is on offer:vanilla, nutmeg, lemongrassand cardamom. A plumpwoman in a green hat pushespast me in her eagerness toheap her basket with freshjuices, squashes and bottlesof wild honey sourced fromthe surrounding forests. "It'sa steal at these prices," shemutters about items that costanywhere between Rs 60 andRs 250, packing as much asher basket will carry.

Enjoyable these activitiesare, but surely not significantenough to warrant a visit toCoonoor every summer.

Then my friends take meon a morning walk.

Green surroundings
At first, all I can see are teapickers plucking leaves invast plantations, but graduallymy eyes open to the wonderof it all. Soon I am appreciatingthe greenness of theleaves, the fact that evenwhen they get scorched ordusty, the landscape staysbeautiful. Set against thecobalt blue of the sky and thered dirt tracts of land wepass, it could easily havebeen a Van Gogh painting weare wandering through.

On each subsequent walk Ifind myself growing in relationshipwith the land. Dewdrops hanging on the undersurfaceof the leaves. Birdscareering through the airwith excitement. Ducks flappingabout in little ponds. Aposter stuck on a tree advertisingan organic cheese-makingcourse. Villagers, withteeth as big as palette knivesand cheeks as red as apples,emerge from houses paintedin primary colours. Theystare curiously at the littleprocession we make via theirhomes to get to the fields onthe other side.

It seems to me that theylive as much outside theirhomes as in them, perhapsfeeling as at home in theworld as indoors. I carry thisjoyful thought and a few bagsof tea home with me. Nowwhen people say, " Ah,Coonoor..." and sigh mysteriously,I understand more preciselywhat they mean.

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