Of hills and serenity: An escape to Dharamsala and McLeodganj

  • Arundhati Chatterjee, Hindustan Times
  • Updated: Nov 25, 2015 17:51 IST
Escape the monotony of urban life by heading to the twin Himalayan hill stations of Dharamsala and McLeodganj. (Instagram/duttasuprriya)

Who says you can’t escape to the hills when winter hits? After all, what better place to escape the smog and the crowd of the Capital than the quaint mountains and valleys of Himachal Pradesh?

While popular tourist spots in the region, like Shimla and Manali, may be bustling with vacationers now, places like Dharamsala offer you the opportunity to leave the crowds behind, and instead, visit ­monasteries, volunteer at community centres, and check out all the sights in a relaxed manner.


Most tourists these days hike to Dharamkot to enrol themselves in the Vipassana meditation centre here.

Dharamkot is a small, quaint village to the north of McLeodganj. It offers a host of upbeat cafés, retreats and Ayurvedic massage centres. Most ­importantly, we found a view to kill for, with the entire Kangra Valley in front of us. Also, as yoga retreats gain momentum, most tourists these days hike to Dharamkot to enrol themselves in the Vipassana meditation centre here. Homestays are also easily available.

HPCA Cricket Ground

A view of stadium in Dharamshala where the IPL match being played.

Amid a picturesque canopy of Deodar woods and green meadows, Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association’s ground stands tall with the snow-capped Dhauladhar range providing a formidable backdrop. This is also the fourth-highest stadium in the world, located at an altitude of 1,457m. Although smaller than, say Mumbai’s famous Wankhede Stadium, visitors will not be disappointed with it at all. Although tourists are not allowed inside the pavilion, the postcard view from the stands more than makes up for it.

One-stop shop

Momos are much in demand, and are sold at every nook and corner.

Do not believe people who tell you that Dharamsala is as commercial as Shimla or Dalhousie. It is not. It is a small town that you can probably explore by foot in a day. However, McLeodganj is vibrant and bustling, especially McLeodganj Square (as it is popularly called), with two parallel boulevards of retail outlets. Here, you can steal deals on almost everything — from handicrafts and winter wear to musical instruments and accessories — by bargaining hard.

Tsuglagkhang Complex

This is reportedly the biggest Tibetan monastery outside Tibet. Close to McLeod Square — the main market area, tourists can attend sermons by the Dalai Lama here. His residence is also on the premises of this magnificent temple. With the sounds of holy chants filling the air, the spacious meditation hall ­resonates with serenity. However, you can’t use your cell phone here or talk loudly. So, keep your decibel levels in check. At the entrance, one will also spot pillars dedicated to the Tibetan martyrs.

The Tibetan Museum, also located here, may not be extraordinary, but has a massive collection of photographs documenting Tibetan history, heritage and culture. The entry fee is `5.

St John in the Wilderness

This Anglican church is located at a walkable distance from both Dharamsala and McLeodganj, at a place called Forsythganj. The church has a cemetery on its premises, and gives an eerie feeling, especially since it’s situated almost in the middle of nowhere. The beautiful Neo-Gothic structure is ornamented with intricate Belgian-stained glass panes. Built in 1852, the then-­viceroy of the country, Lord Elgin, was buried here in 1863.

Good food

There are countless cafés across Dharamsala and McLeodganj serving a range of cuisines, including Chinese, Tibetan, Kashmiri and Israeli. Giving them stiff competition are the roadside stalls with their steamed momos, fried baklebs (tiny Tibetan-styled samosas) and filling thukpas (thick noodle soup with vegetables, boiled chicken pieces and egg slices).

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Community service

There are a bunch of places where you can contribute during your stay here. We enrolled ourselves for a couple of hour-long conversation sessions at Tibet World in McLeodganj. Here, we conversed in English with locals to boost their proficiency in the language. To register, submit a passport or stamp-sized photo of yourself, and fill a form with your contact details.

How to reach

1 Dharamsala is a 30-minute drive from Gaggal Airport (also known as Kangra Airport).

2 Alternatively, board a train to Pathankot. Dharamsala is a two-and-a-half hour journey via road from there.

3 McLeodganj is situated 5km away from Dharamsala.

4 You can use cabs or choose to walk.

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