Bytes from across the border
Monica SharmaPakistan, November 11, 2011
First Published: 13:04 IST(11/11/2011)
Last Updated: 13:04 IST(11/11/2011)
15 Minutes of fame
It takes years to slowly climb the
ladder of success in journalism,
and people still don't recognise
you by face -- well, unless
you're Vir Sanghvi that is. But, it
takes just a few minutes for a
journalist, especially female, to
achieve 'celeb' status while
What
Faisal Mosque Badshahi Mosque Shalamar Garden Wagah Border
When
Any Time
Where
Hindukush Heights Hotel Avari Towers Karachi Islamabad Serena Hotel Eagles Nest Hotel
Map
crossing
the India-Pakistan border.
That's right! As soon as your
feet touch Pakistani soil, local TV
reporters rush towards the
women journalists, who are a rarity
in Pakistan. With mikes in
hand, eager for a byte for TV, they
promptly ask you to articulate
your feelings about India-Pakistan
relations.
So, on this five-day visit to
Lahore to attend a media conference,
I basked in my newfound
glory. The VIP treatment continued
throughout the stay.
Local television channels such
as Kohenoor news channel and
Express News were eager to have
a panel discussion with the Indian
journalists. And, get this -- you
don't have to go to the television
"sets" -- they come to you. The
TV anchors erect the sets at the
hotel itself, as the organisers of
Lahore Press Club restrict entry.
But before we know it, after a
fascinating five-day stay, packed
with sightseeing and entertainment
organised by the press club,
it's time to go. As we leave the
country and return to the south
side of the border, reality dawns
upon us. The VIP status quickly
wears off and we are nothing short
of ordinary, once again.
Desi girls
Onscreen Indian women have captivated
the Pakistani audience for
years. Fascinated by the persona
of these desi girls, who are clad in
heavily embroidered saris and
jewellery from head to toe, the
ladies from across the border are
hooked onto Indian TV serials on
Star Plus, Sony, Colors and more.
India's smallscreen babes rule in
the sisterland -- be it Balika
Vadhu, Yeh Rishta Kya Kehlata
Hai or the longest ever running
Indian daily soap, Kyunki Saas
Bhi Kabhi Bahu Thi -- local ladies
love them all.
But, many are under the
impression that reel and real life
Indian lasses are one in the same.
I had to clear things up. No, we
don't sleep in our bridal saris with
a face full of makeup and kilos of
gold jewellery.
A Pakistani journalist revealed
that these serials are even responsible
for strained relationships
between husbands and wives
due to the battle of the remote
control. In fact, he shared that
these ladies remain glued to the
television for at least two hours
every evening, neglecting their
household chores.
Pakistan's golden palki
The golden palki (palanquin) carrying
Sikhism's holy text, the
Guru Granth Sahib, was taken to
the birthplace of the first Sikh
guru, Guru Nanak Dev, in
Nankana Sahib, near Lahore, in
2005. But the golden canopy could
not make its way inside the sacred
sanctorum due to its enormous
size. It now sits in the courtyard
just next to the sanctorum. In
fact, initially its two pillars were
also detached, as it could not be
removed from the bus.
A glass-covered shed has been
erected to keep the holy Granth
Sahib safe in the golden palki. A
guard is also positioned near the
palki to protect it. Among others,
a woman granthi has also taken
up the important task to recite
the holy text.
The palanquin, which is made
up of 15 kg of gold, was presented
by the Delhi Sikh Gurdwara
Management Committee
(DSGMC) after the Pakistan Sikh
Gurdwara Parbandhak
Committee (PSGPC) decided to
replace the marble canopy with a
golden palanquin.
Foodies' haven
The night food street in
Chandigarh was constructed
along the lines of the one in
Lahore. In fact, Lahore's food
street has more of a fan following
than the one in Chandigarh, mainly
because of the traditional
Pakistani food available, especially
the non-veg delicacies.
Tale of two cities
On a bus ride journeying through
the historic city of Lahore, we drive
past well-preserved monuments,
free from the effect of time, with
nothing more than the fallen leaves
to litter the grounds. The
Shalamar Gardens are reminiscent
of Kalka's Pinjore Garden, only in a
much better condition. The cities,
however, are far from clean.
The five-day sojourn in the
Paris of Pakistan, Lahore, is
enough to cause a considerable
dent in one's initial opinion of the
place. The road, which twists and
turns through the history of the
city, took us to the historic fort
and other sites from our hotel.
These roads were not just wide
and comparatively decongested,
but also devoid of potholes, which
characterise the freeways running
through the length and breadth of
the Indian cities.
The dazzling noon sun, apparently
a bit too warm for October,
brings to light some scribbles on
the monuments as we reach
Lahore Fort on day two of the trip.
This reminded me of another trip,
which I took to Hyderabad.
Humayun's Tomb in Hyderabad
and the Sheesh Mahal in Lahore
(in the Lahore Fort) have more
than just Mughal architecture in
common -- they are both also
marred by graffiti. But the two
cities, both predominantly
Muslim, have a startling difference
-- that of the upkeep.
The tryst with the past in
Lahore makes it abundantly clear
that the Pakistanis have a bit more
respect for their culture and heritage.
Be it the Sheesh Mahal or
the Shalamar Gardens, you cannot
find faults with the upkeep. As you
stand face to face with Lahore's
past, it dawns upon you that India
can only catch up to its sisterland
across the border, if people pay
more respect to their heritage.
Historical shopping
A visit to the historic Anarkali
Bazaar in Lahore, established by
Emperor Jahangir, sets a familiar
scene. The old market, Chandni
Chowk, in Delhi as well as the
bazaars in Lucknow and
Hyderabad, share many similarities
with those in Lahore. The
structures, buildings, pathways
and even the display of goods, is
almost the same. Even shopkeepers
have the same style of haggling
with customers.
Anarkali Bazaar, one of the oldest
surviving markets in South
Asia, is reminiscent of the bygone
era. It was named after Anarkali,
the love interest of Mughal
emperor Akbar's son, Salim. The
bazaar is made up of a web of narrow
passages and lanes extending
towards Old Lahore.
While wandering through the
tapered lanes of the market, you
will find imitation royal Mughal
style jewellery, pathani kurtas for
men, suits with cotton lace for
women, hair pieces and even the
famous Hashmi Surma. The shopkeepers
are open to negotiate on
prices and the rates can be
slashed down to almost half. And,
if you are an Indian visitor, you
will probably get an additional discount
due to the 'Lahori
Mahmanzi'.
Bollywood's best
Pakistanis love to watch Bollywood
movies. Nothing wrong with that.
But ask them who their favourite
actors are, and the answer may come
as a surprise -- no it's not the globe's
most renowned veteran actor
Amitabh Bachchan. Nor is it some of
today's hottest stars such as Akshay
Kumar and Ajay Devgn. Kareena is
okay, but their hearts beat for
Katrina Kaif.
The actors that topped the list
of India's hottest are the Khans --
Aamir, Salman, and Shah Rukh.
The elders give no justification for
the rating. But a young boy does,
"Of course they are our favourites
-- they are bringing glory to the
Muslim community worldwide."
Third eye
In Pakistan, you are never alone.
And, it's not just the uneasy feeling
of being in an unfamiliar territory
that accompanies you constantly.
Day in and day out there is a third
eye watching over you. No one
really knows whether it's the Inter
Services intelligence (ISI) keeping
a tab on the activities of Indian
journalists or just a strange coincidence
that you feel like you're
under observation.
But, one thing is for sure. Be it
the hotel lobby or corridors, there
are familiar strangers lurking
about, struggli
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