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War zone to ski haven

Once a Taliban hub where girls' schools were targeted, Swat has become the paradise it was always supposed to be. Zia Haq writes.

world Updated: Apr 25, 2012 23:05 IST
Zia Haq

In the craggy mountains of Swat, a district in the tribal Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, Maulana Fazlullah's men came raiding like a pack of hyenas, razed schools and lured locals into an international conflict through a combination of threats, money and Islamic rhetoric. Few resisted.


Swat was overrun in July 2007 by Fazlullah, a Taliban leader nicknamed 'Mullah Radio' because he had launched a private FM station for jihad. Osama bin Laden vacationed here while the residents were building his Abbotabad home.

Swat is called Asia's Switzerland, and not for nothing. At Kabal tehsil here, heavenly vistas unfold before your eyes. Rolling green meadows merge with the Korakoram range, towering into the skies. Snowy

carpets sweep down entire slopes, where Western vacationers would come to ski.

A blast brought down the higher secondary school for girls in Kabal tehsil, where seven-year-old Taiba Sajid Hamid used to study. "Why on earth do you need girls' schools?" Fazlullah thundered on 'Mullah FM' one fine morning from the Malam Jabba resort, which he had converted into his stronghold after blowing up the skiing facility.

Finally, when all hope seemed lost, Hamid and her younger sister, Hafsa, were packed off by their mother, Fazilat, on the back of a trekker – those gaudily decked-up vehicles you find in rural Pakistan – and taken to Lahore.

The family of three formed a part of the 2,50,000 people who fled the Taliban siege, becoming Pakistan's largest number of "internally displaced people".

Today, Swat presents a best-case scenario for Pakistan's war on terror. After over 8,000 offensives – big and small – the army retook Swat in 2010. Nearly 3,500 militants and 416 soldiers died in the operation. At the heart of this success lay support from local people, Fazilat being a case in point.

"Mashallah, I'm happy to be in a brand new school," Taiba says. At the biology lab of the reconstructed school, girls in full-face hijab waited for us to tell their stories. Sixteen-year-old Nausheen Hadi says she has regained her window to the world – Bollywood movies. Not to mention her favourite star, Akshay Kumar.

Though Swat was once one of the most literate areas of the province, around 53,000 children quit schools between 2001-08, says Brigadier Bilal of the 19 Division, which led the anti-Taliban offensives.

Swat has regained its ski resort, and Pakistan its favourite holiday destination. The 19 Division likes to call it the 'Spirit of Swat', branding the phrase on gifts, souvenirs and shopping bags. Last year, it also launched the 'Spirit of Swat' festival – celebrating freedom of speech, expression and action.
Freedom from the Taliban.