Rooting for inclusivity and handloom
Presented by the Fashion Design Council of India, Day 1 of Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week Spring Summer 2020 in association with EBixCash kick-started with an interesting dichotomy of ideas - while there was a resurgence of handloom textiles, one also saw a wave of space-age style.
Sustainable chic, inclusivity and gender-neutral style - three buzzwords echoed in the Major Dhyan Chand National Stadium, on day 1 of the India Fashion Week. The new venue and the thoughtfully realised setup lent gravitas to the craftsmanship showcased on the ramp.
Be it the asymmetric runway, toasty and inviting lounge spaces or a vintage car parked at the entrance – there was a fresh approach to showcase real style and also how we perceive fashion. We saw models of all shapes and sizes and also an acid attack victim, who strutted down the runway with confidence and heartwarming insouciance. What dominated the collections this season was an undying love for handlooms, the burnt orange hue, colour blocked stripes and luscious florals.
Ikai by Ragini Ahuja
Florals, stripes, pencil dots and colour blocking were the recurring trend on the show. Models walked barefoot sporting tied-up thread anklets on the runway. The designer presented a desi take on the au courant fanny-pack complemented with sustainable clothing. Long jackets layered over the kurta, sheer waist pull thread kaftans and pencil dot pant suits were some of the key highlights.
Style tip: Go minimal on accessories; let the understated look make a statement.
Pramaa by Pratima Pandey
Indian handlooms like the indigenous Chanderi dominated Pratima’s collection. The show started with models sporting crinkled maxis accentuated with floral embroidery and sheer shirts teamed with embroidered skirts. The gold accents, sleeves with pleated hems, ombré skirts and tie dye gave the outing a sense of totality. Actor Sakshi Tanwar played muse to the designer in a gold chanderi saree with an embroidered pallu.
Style tip: Ditch heels and wear the sari with Kolhapuris for a comfy and effortless ethnic look.
The show started with a rapper crooning about what we owe to the environment today. The collection used Warp wastage from the looms to construct the garments. Striped saris complemented side-knotted blouses and fringed cropped jackets were paired with skirts. A flurry of panelled dresses and a lot of summer layering came alive thanks to techniques such as Jamdani and batik.
Style tip: Since the ensemble is statement-making, keep the accessories minimal.
Exuding androgynous allure, Khanna stuck to her signature style and colour palette. Made by leftover scrap yarns, there were fringed saris, denim jerseys, shibori pantsuits, on-point layering and the designer’s take on waist bags.
Style tip: Team the tie and dye pantsuit with a plain shirt or a bra-let for a more fun look.
The collection had a mix and match appeal - from jacquard suits teamed with shorts, exaggerated necklines taking us back to the Victorian Era to the knife pleated sleeves and dress. A panoply of mermaid tiered dresses and intricately realised appliqué work on jackets made heads turn.
Style tip: Style the blazer with a pair of ripped denim and sneakers.
Think sculpted glamour unravelled in the most unabashed way. The designer’s collection featured structured and fluid silhouettes inspired by ripples and waves. The standout look from this luminous offering was the mustard ensemble created from steel wires. This season, Rimzim debuted her menswear range which had metallic bombers, Nehru jackets and shirts staying true to her design vocabulary.
Style tip: While wearing an all metallic look, keep the accessories minimal and let the outfit do all the talking for you.
The designer reinterpreted gothic glam with his models sashaying down the runway in dramatic gowns accented with capes and exaggerated sleeves. The cascading embroidery on the theatrical ensembles was visually sumptuous. A bell sleeved silk embroidered gown with a trail was the highlight.
Style tip: Ditch the jewellery and finish off this look with a messy chignon and nude make-up.
Nailing the all-pervading anti-fit trend, designer duo Pranav Misra and Shyma Shetty redefined the denim play suiting the millennial sensibilities. With athleisure being the core of their label’s DNA, the designers presented a fresh take on their easy, chic approach to of-the-moment style. The high point was the denim which was recontextualised from recycled ocean plastic.
Style tip: Wear boxy, baggy silhouette with utmost swag and add an element of quirk by opting for fun hair extensions.
(Written by Prerna Gauba Sibbal and Akshay Kaushal)