Delhiwale: Chai by the Qutub

Manikchand's Om Sai Ram Tea Stall in Mehrauli, near Qutub Minar, tells a tale of resilience after quitting a job, serving chai daily at just 10 rupees.

Founded 12 years ago, this has to be Delhi’s most picturesque roadside chai stall. It shares its widescreen panorama with the centuries-old tower of Qutub Minar.

A roadside chai stall near the Qutub Minar. (HT Photo)

After completing the evening’s chai delivery to his regulars, who work in nearby offices, here in Mehrauli, Manikchand returns to his stall. Sitting down on the chair, beside the tea kettle, the milk pan, and a plastic jar filled with crispy crumbly mathhis, he tells the history of his monument. Not the Qutub Minar, but his beloved Om Sai Ram Allahabadi Tea & Coffee Stall (no coffee served though).

To Manikchand, the most important aspect of his establishment is the story of how he came to set it up. “Many years ago, when I arrived in Delhi from my home district in Allahabad, I used to work over there.” He gestures towards “lawyers and typists” stationed along a long row across the busy road, on the dusty pave, just beside the revenue department’s office of Hauz Khas’s ‘E-Sub Registrar.’ Each man’s workstation comprises of a desk, a chair and a typewriter (one has a laptop).

These men, Manikchand explains. help their clients in processing their legal documents. He used to work for one such “patri” typist, and his job, he says, was similar to that of an “office peon,” obliging him to deliver documents from one place to another.

“It was my fourth year of working for a typist. One day, I had to bring back payment from one of my employer’s clients. I expected the employer to give me a small amount because the assignment was far beyond my regular duty.”

Here Manikchand pauses, shaking his head.

“He refused. I reminded him my years of dedication, and that I could not work any longer for him if he shows such disregard to my service.”

The employer simply shrugged. Manikchand quit the job. The next months were full of troubles common to any unemployed person.

“Eventually, I started this stall.”

Despite the passage of time, Manikchand admits he hasn’t been able to forget the hurt caused by his former employer. Later, during the course of the conversation, he confides that “this stall might be close to the Qutub Minar, but it is so small. My life is tough. I’m unhappy.”

The stall opens daily from 11am to 9pm. A cup of chai (served in paper cups) costs 10 rupees.