Virginie Viard takes her girl gang clubbing

Chanel’s Creative Director stages an intimate soiree clashing tweed with chiffon, puffers with camisoles

It’s hard to picture a Chanel ready-to-wear show staged anywhere else, but at the larger-than-life venue of Grand Palais, which has been the brand’s artistic playground for years. Once converted into a forest of oak and pine or recently transformed into a charming train station - Grand Palais and the house of Chanel have been like Rue Cambon and Coco’s atelier. It’s difficult to think of one without thinking of the other. However, for Autumn Winter 21, Virginie Viard had a more intimate agenda. She invited her models and muses into the iconic Left Bank nightclub Chez Castel, which was a popular hangout for legends like Francoise Hardy and Mick Jagger back in the day. 

Virginie Viard takes a bow with her models as she presents Chanel’s AW 21 collection (Photo: Instagram/ChanelOfficial)

This digital presentation also brought to mind one of Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel films titled, ‘Women Only’ (Fall Winter 2013-14) when he picked the backdrop of a Parisian cinema to present his designs. 

The dark, moodily-lit club was the perfect backdrop as Viard’s legion of girls (some reminded one of the late model Stella Tennant) as her shine-on pailetted ensembles gleamed and glistened, as the signature tweed flirted with faux fur. 

Caroline de Maigret in a shine-on look from Chanel AW 21 (Photo: Instagram/InezAndVinoodh)

The silhouettes had a delightful clash- long line jackets layered over mini dresses, bodysuits and chevron tweed had a conversation with sublime chiffons. The athleisure influenced line-up had a strong ski vibe featuring a panoply of jumpers, puffers, parkas, which presented a counterpoint to the feminine lace camisoles and come-hither quilted mini skirts. Most ensembles presented a French paradox of sorts - bare legs brought to focus by the thigh-high slits teamed with fluffy statement boots. Pronounced kohl-rimmed eyes and fringed mane added to a strong city girl chicness.  

A winter in Paris where opposites attract. Bare legs paired with faux fur boots and an oversized coat. (Photo: Instagram/ChanelOfficial)

There was ample shine as Viard adopted a take no prisoners approach to multi-hued sequins. Well, we could all use some sparkle post pandemic. 

She also referenced Chanel’s fall 1994 collection, which scored high on faux fur suits and coats. She reinterpreted those looks in monochromes and pink shearling. The highpoint was definitely the last look - a gold trench coat, styled with a felt hat. 

The mellifluous yet catchy music by Michel Gaubert injected just the right dose of chutzpah and charm to the showcase. Youthful, fun and approachable - that was the overall vibe in this outing radiating a playful girliness.

manish.mishra1@hindustantimes.com