Orange, seaweed and nettles do a T-shirt make

A quick Q&A with executives at the Spanish company Pyratex, on their efforts to make fabrics from fruit and other plant-based raw materials.

As demand for sustainability grows in the fashion industry — currently one of the world’s most polluting — new questions are emerging. What constitutes ethical sourcing, as the focus shifts to new raw materials? How is one to scale sustainably, while keeping costs low enough to permeate the mainstream?

In Spain, Pyratex, founded in 2014, is on a mission to develop solutions that cross textiles and technologies to replace synthetic fibres with more sustainable alternatives. Regina Polanco, founder & CEO

A knitting machine at a Pyratex factory. (Pyratex)

How is Pyratex being used by brands and yarn companies around the world?

Some of the brands we are working with are Scotch & Soda, who created a collection using Pyratex element 1, together with Trees for All, a global foundation that has been carrying out reforestation projects in Central and South America, Africa and Asia, as well as the Netherlands, for more than 20 years.

Mara Hoffman created a swimwear collection made with Pyratex power fabrics. Mango launched a collection consisting of a T-shirt and shorts made with Pyratex seacell. Camper has used our Pyratex seacell for three launches of socks. To name a few.

What is the environmental advantage of using such materials?

These fibres can be likened to the textile version of superfoods. The finished fabric retains all the positive qualities of its source, which can range from agricultural waste to seaweed from the North Atlantic. These include superior breathability, UV protection, cooling effects, anti-irritation.

We maintain a continuous commitment to advancing towards regenerative materials. We work with a number of certifications in the factories, processes and fibres, including OEKO-TEX, Bluesign and PEFC.

What are the challenges of scaling up such materials?

When innovating at the raw material or fibre stage, we face the task of establishing supply chains. This involves onboarding production partners who can handle the processing of these fibres correctly.

Furthermore, there are costing challenges. Innovations typically incur higher costs, considering all the stages from research and development to market launch. Additionally, it’s essential to factor in the competitive landscape, as staying ahead of competitors in terms of innovation can also entail increased expenses. Balancing these challenges is crucial for the successful scaling of the materials we develop.