London for the modern Indian

A new generation of Indians is conquering London. Meet the Sethis with their six Michelin stars across five restaurants and many cuisines

As you probably know, if you are a reader of Rude Food, I am not necessarily a huge fan of most London Indian restaurants. While there are outstanding chefs in London, the upmarket London restaurant scene strikes me as being hollow, rootless and smug.

Hoppers has a menu that explores the continuum between the food of Kerala and the food of Sri Lanka

Trishna, a contemporary Indian Michelin-starred restaurant, focuses on food from South West India

(From left) Founder Karam Sethi runs the group with his sister and sommelier Sunaina and brother Jyotin Sethi

Bubbledogs serves 12 kinds of hot dogs with champagne

Crab curry at Hoppers Soho

There must surely be Indians who have grown up in the UK and know what would work in London

Brigadiers, an upmarket but casual restaurant, has some unusual dishes