The 2026 runway season saw the brooch emerge as a quiet disruptor, cutting through the shimmer and sculptural silhouettes. Across Milan, Paris and Haute Couture Weeks, held this month, designers treated the brooch as more than a finishing touch, placing it firmly in the spotlight. Here’s a look at the standout brooch moments from the shows.
A regal touch
Chanel’s display featured a regal, high-jewellery brooch set with a deep cobalt-blue cabochon stone, framed by an ornate halo of diamonds. The design is symmetrical and baroque, with scroll-like silver detailing that ends in a single teardrop sapphire pendant. It sits centred on the bodice, acting like the extension of the pendant.
Florals in bloom
Dior’s showcase was in full bloom with extravagant floral brooches. Visually, this brooch looks like a miniature framed artwork pinned onto the garment. The centre features a tiny, oval portrait reminiscent of classical European paintings, bordered by an ornate metallic frame. Surrounding it are delicately crumpled fabric flowers in deep blue and soft mauve, almost like sculpted petals.
Childlike surrealism
{{/usCountry}}Dior’s showcase was in full bloom with extravagant floral brooches. Visually, this brooch looks like a miniature framed artwork pinned onto the garment. The centre features a tiny, oval portrait reminiscent of classical European paintings, bordered by an ornate metallic frame. Surrounding it are delicately crumpled fabric flowers in deep blue and soft mauve, almost like sculpted petals.
Childlike surrealism
{{/usCountry}}Simon Cracker went all out with their brooch showcase featuring quirky shapes. One of the standout brooches features a mix of baby and a sculptural spider. The brooch stands out as a tiny rebellion, adding humour, oddity, and a touch of punk absurdity to the look.
Clock it on your chest
A large circular crystal-encrusted brooch, shimmering in cool silvers and whites, made its case on Dolce & Gabbana’s runway, pinned onto a dark velvet lapel. What stood out was that it featured a small clock in between with a delicate gold chain draping across the chest from the brooch to a matching secondary pin, adding old-world formality reminiscent of vintage pocket-watch styling.
Brooch meets origami
This brooch from Jacquemus takes a more playful, almost dadaist approach. It’s crafted from a crisp piece of fabric folded into a pocket-square-meets-origami shape, dotted with colourful polka dots that feel hand-painted or intentionally childlike. Three oversized pins pierce through the fabric in blue, yellow, and red bead-tipped colours, giving the piece the feel of a tailor’s pin cushion turned into abstract art. At the centre is a curved, metallic gold fastening pin, giving the piece a raw, undone edge.
Delicately yours
Ralph Lauren stole the show with a delicate white flower brooch pinned to a structured velvet lapel. The bloom, soft, realistic, and creamy, is paired with a sprig of green leaves and a small metallic accent, echoing classic equestrian or dandy-inspired boutonnière styling.