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Introducing fleather: Kanpur startup turns floral waste to vegan leather

Made from discarded flowers, fleather will not only bring relief to animal activists but also solve the problem of floral waste

Updated on: Aug 29, 2020, 14:17:07 IST
Hindustan Times, Lucknow | By
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Floral waste has found new purpose, courtesy Phool.co, an Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Kanpur-backed biomaterial startup which has developed ‘fleather’—bio-degradable vegan leather made from discarded temple flowers.

Intrigued by the formation of a leather-like white layer on unused piles of flowers, Phool.co’s R&D team discovered the growth of a micro-organism which used flower petals as a nutritional source. (HT Photo)
Intrigued by the formation of a leather-like white layer on unused piles of flowers, Phool.co’s R&D team discovered the growth of a micro-organism which used flower petals as a nutritional source. (HT Photo)

“Fleather is a viable alternative to animal leather,” claimed Ankit Agarwal, the co-founder of Phool.co, who was among the 17 young leaders from across the globe selected by the United Nations for its Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) initiative in 2018.

In India, leather is used in several industries, from fashion apparels to saddlery.

India produces 12.9% of the world’s hides, which is greater that 3 billion sq foot per year.

“We convert floral waste into charcoal-free incense products. But last year, we decided to explore the development of animal-free leather. Intrigued by the formation of a leather-like white layer on unused piles of flowers, our R&D team discovered the growth of a micro-organism which used flower petals as a nutritional source,” he said.

“Leather contains collagen which provides it strength and durability, whereas fleather has chitin, a kind of protein, that gives it the same properties. Collagen and chitin are natural analogues, making fleather a perfect substitute for leather,” he said.

Professor Abhay Karandikar, the director of IIT Kanpur said, “For a young entrepreneur, this is remarkable commitment towards nation-building.”

IIT Kanpur has been Phool.co’s backbone for technical research. The R&D team comprises Sandeep Kumar, MTech (biotechnology) from IIT Kanpur and Saumya Srivastava, MTech (biotechnology) from IIT-Guwahati. The team is led by Nachiket Kuntla, BTech (chemical engineering) from IIT Bombay and MTech (chemical engineering) from IIT Kanpur.

Talking about the research, Ankit said, “We identified the biological species and grew strains of similar species in the lab and isolated the best species in terms of strength and growth rate for further research. We developed a technique to extract the maximum nutritional content from the flowers and introduced certain additives to make a final medium that would trigger the growth of the micro-organism as well as enhance the properties of the fleather sheet.”

“We adapted the micro-organism to increase the thickness and strength of the fleather and better its texture. The tensile strength, elasticity and sheer resistance of fleather is matching or is rather superior to that of traditional leather,” he said.

Phool.co was founded by Ankit Agarwal and Prateek Kumar in July 2017.

 
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Rajeev Mullick

Rajeev Mullick, Assistant Editor, is a Lucknow-based journalist with over 26 years of experience covering governance, public policy and administration in Uttar Pradesh. His reporting focuses on the district administration, the Divisional Commissioner's Office, the Regional Meteorological Centre, and government policies relating to technical, higher, secondary and primary education. Known for impactful public-interest journalism, his investigations have led to significant policy attention, including a report on deficiencies in a state-run school footwear distribution scheme that prompted widespread national coverage and High Court intervention. He broke the story on the Uttar Pradesh government's One District One Cuisine initiative, highlighting the inclusion of sweets and the exclusion of non-vegetarian dishes, triggering widespread public debate. He covered Mahakumbh 2025 at Prayagraj, reports on the event's administrative, logistical and civic dimensions. From 2012 to 2024, he headed the Lucknow City Bureau, leading coverage of the state's administrative and civic developments while mentoring young reporters. He loves to travel, listen to music. He is fond of eating good food both veg and non veg. He has travelled to several states like West Bengal, Uttarakhand, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, Family Nadu, Kerela, Bihar, Jharkhand and home state UP.

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