Delhiwale: Too dream-like to be substantial

Recent rains created picturesque reflections in Delhi's parks, notably Sunder Nursery and Humayun's Tomb, enhancing their beauty after sunset.

To see a dry world reflected in the water is like a small miracle. This week’s unexpected rains created small and big puddles across Lodhi Garden, in which fragments of the park’s centuries-old monuments at once appeared as placid reflections. Such moments need not wait for rain. Delhi has enough water bodies, though the city treats its portion of the sacred Yamuna so poorly that the polluted river reflects almost nothing back.

At Sunder Nursery, after sunset, the city’s smog-heavy sky retreats into pitch blackness. Amid the trees and grass, a few lamp posts stand along the park’s lake; their gold reflections lighting up the dark water. (HT Photo)

Or take the lake at Hauz Khas Village. It certainly is picturesque, but its smelly water holds little beyond the gold light of sunset. In Central Delhi, however, two adjacent sites offer richer returns, especially after the day’s end. One is a park with a lake; other is a monument with a pool.

At Sunder Nursery, after sunset, the city’s smog-heavy sky retreats into pitch blackness. Amid the trees and grass, a few lamp posts stand along the park’s lake; their gold reflections lighting up the dark water. Much of the lake water, though, is claimed by the reflection of the illumined Lakkarwala Burj, which stands slightly removed from the lake. The stone monument and its reflection seem to have a bond existing over centuries—but the bond is recent. The Burj is of the 16th century; the lake dates from a few years ago, created during the nursery’s restoration by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. Positioned at the park’s lowest point, the lake also serves to hold the rainwater. Its reflective power was not accidental. The park’s landscape architect, the late Muhammad Shaheer, spent days assessing the site to determine how the monument and surrounding trees would appear as a reflection in the then forthcoming lake.

Some steps away, a pedestrian bridge hangs over the lake. Beyond it, an outdoor restaurant stands by the lake. The fidgets of its scattered lights are lying reflected on the darkened lake water. From the bridge, it seems as if the sound of diners talking in the restaurant were coming from the water. Their frequent laughters make the person standing alone on the bridge feel more alone.

Then there is Humayun’s Tomb, across the road from Sunder Nursery.

A small rectangular pool before the main tomb is best seen after sunset, when the monument is lit and the sky is black. Tonight, the grounds are nearly deserted. Two visitors are standing by the pool, blocking the view—one is carrying a bag printed with the word “love.” After they move to the side, the pool becomes wholly visible. The water in it is holding a steady, unbroken reflection of the tomb. The sight is unreal, as if perceived by feeling instead of sense.

PS: Sunder Nursery and Humayun Tomb are open till 10pm; last ticket at 9pm