Navratri is over, heralding the arrival of Vijaydashmi or Dussehra. Today is when Ravana effigies are burnt, symbolising the victory of good over evil. As communities across the country conjure up grand feasts, chefs tell us about the significance of these regional delicacies.
In the East (particularly West Bengal), Bijoya Dashami is an emotional farewell to Goddess Durga, and the feast takes on a different tone — families prepare khichuri with labra (a medley of vegetables), payesh, and sweets like sandesh and rasgulla. “While vegetarian offerings are central to the rituals, Bijoya is equally known for its indulgent non-vegetarian spreads, with mutton kosha and fish curries gracing festive tables,” chef Nishant Choubey tells us.
Meanwhile, Chef Pawan Bisht recalls beautiful memories of celebrating Dussehra in Uttarakhand. For him, the day is synonymous with a lovingly laid out, indulgent spread. His absolute favourite, dish, he says, is a sweet called Jhangore (Barnyard millet) ki kheer. “As a child, I loved being my mum’s sous chef. Jhangore ki kheer has always been special to me; it’s a delicious yet underrated dessert that’s comforting, healthy and surprisingly easy to make,” Pawan says.
Over in Maharashtra, chef Reetu Uday Kugaji recounts how families exchange apta or bidi leaves (a local tradition that symbolises the exchange of gold) on Vijayadashami. “The food that accompanies this includes sweet breads such as puran poli or desserts such as shrikhand or basundi. Kadakani, a sweet puri, is also consumed as prasad,” she notes. The neighbouring state of Gujarat also kicks off Dussehra celebrations on a sweet note; mornings begin with the preparation of fafda and jalebis.
{{/usCountry}}Over in Maharashtra, chef Reetu Uday Kugaji recounts how families exchange apta or bidi leaves (a local tradition that symbolises the exchange of gold) on Vijayadashami. “The food that accompanies this includes sweet breads such as puran poli or desserts such as shrikhand or basundi. Kadakani, a sweet puri, is also consumed as prasad,” she notes. The neighbouring state of Gujarat also kicks off Dussehra celebrations on a sweet note; mornings begin with the preparation of fafda and jalebis.
{{/usCountry}}In the southern states, Dussehra (or Dasara) often overlaps with Ayudha Puja. And the food is as diverse as the traditions across the region. Chef Sukesh Kanchan informs, “In Karnataka, festive fare includes obbattu (sweet flatbread), puliyogare (tamarind rice) and kosambari (salad). Families in Tamil Nadu prepare sundal for Navratri, while Vijayadashami has offerings such as pongal, payasam and vadai.”
Elsewhere, he adds: “Kerala marks Vidyarambham with payasam and appam; in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, pulihora (tamarind rice), poornam boorelu (sweet fried roundels) and garelu (vadas) are festival staples.”
But while traditional fare rules the roost, fusion dishes are making their way into festive menus. In North, chef Choubey says, “Dishes such as bedamipuri, Pahadi aloo sabzi, makhana kheer and jalebi keep the sanctity of saatvik yet festive meals alive. I’m also seeing more experimental combinations, such as cranberry in golgappe and dahi vada with purple potato aloo dum, millet-based puris, tikkis with fennel jam, beetroot kebabs and much more.”