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The regal tale of fashion designer JJ Valaya
We explore the life and art of a man who blends heritage, luxury and wit to create couture that stands test of time.
JJ Valaya wears many crowns — from pioneering India's fashion scene to capturing timeless moments through his lens, he is truly the czar of Indian couture and luxury. While his commanding presence might seem intimidating at first, those who know him well quickly discover his sharp wit and delightful sense of humour. For our exclusive shout, we convinced the couturier to embrace his signature regal style and pose adorned in jewels — a first for the designer — inviting us into the exquisite World of Valaya, where heritage and haute couture merge effortlessly.
Chartered accountant to fashion legend
Reflecting on his journey, Valaya calls his shift from chartered accountancy to fashion design “a divine intervention”. "I had a profound realisation while doing CA — I didn't know what I wanted to do, but I was very clear on what I didn't want to do," he laughs, "I remember selling all my accounting books to the kabaadiwala for about 240-250 Rs, then giving the money to my mum. Needless to say, she was furious! Fashion wasn't an obvious option back then. But an uncle told me about a design course at Hotel Samrat, Delhi. The moment I stepped in, I knew I belonged there."
Mentored by Rohit Khosla
After graduating from NIFT, Valaya interned with the legendary Rohit Khosla, whom he calls "the father of modern Indian fashion". "He was the original fashion icon in India - the one who discovered Rohit Bal in a nightclub. What I admired most was his effortless style and fearless experimentation. His 1989 collection, made entirely with sutri (a jute robe), wooden beads, and shells, still feels relevant today."
A lost royal
Born in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, Valaya's affinity for royalty runs deep. "I think I'm a lost royal, a maharaja reborn. Jodhpur's regal spirit shaped me. Royalty defines my ethos. I strive to rediscover, reinvent and represent a lost grandeur. The art-deco era fascinates me; you'll see that influence all around my store. Everything I create is personal - I'll keep going till I can. Ultimately, the brand must outlive me, and that is its true purpose."
The photographer's eye
Valaya's artistry has never been confined to couture alone. A gifted photographer, he began exploring the lens during his student days at NIFT, eventually holding his first art show in 2011. "Photography is my release,"he shares, "I shoot most of my campaigns. I'm not into commercial photography - Henri Cartier-Bresson, the father of candid photography, is my absolute God. I've managed to capture moments I hope will be treasured forever.
"The depth of his work hasn't gone unnoticed. Acclaimed photographer Tarun Khiwal - known for his masterful use of light and one of India's most celebrated fashion photographers — once attended Valaya's book launch and was so struck by his photographs that he remarked he'd need to "unlearn everything" to be able to shoot images like those. A compliment like that, coming from a legend, says it all.
Master of his own fate
At one point, disillusioned with Indian fashion's direction, Valaya closed his stores and took a sabbatical. "I was bored with the scene — nobody was embracing true luxury. I feared I was losing my way. During that break, I met two amazing people who have become lifelong partners. I bounced back, and by the end of this year, we'll have seven to eight stores across India.
Words of wisdom and family pride
Those who know Valaya beyond the ateliers and camera lenses would tell you that his creative wellspring is as much spiritual as it is artistic. He practices belly meditation — a discipline that grounds and rejuvenates him. "I was very, fortunate to discover Tavneer ji, who is my master and guru, he shares with quiet reverence. He adds, "I've been able to find someone who pretty much redefined my whole existence for me. Through the highs and lows, every part of my journey is made enjoyable with this practice. I don't think I could have hoped for a bigger gift than this. I've seen so many miracles through this practice.".
Whenever he finds the time, he makes it a point to visit his guru — a ritual that, for Valaya, is as essential as his art. And just when the conversation feels like it might float into the ether, he brings it back down to earth with a wry smile: "If I could change one thing, I'd probably eat a little less.
On his daughter Hoorvi J Valaya's success as a stylist, he beams with pride: “What I truly admire is that she never leaned on me. After her studies, she told me, 'I don't want to work with you; I want to carve my own path. And please don't make a single phone call for me. She's incredibly hardworking and passionate about her craft. I'm truly grateful to God for everything.”
