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Kolkata's Tiretti Bazaar isn't just about momos: It's India's only historic Chinatown with an Italian origin and centuries of Chinese-Indian history

Published on: Oct 13, 2026, 17:20:08 IST
At Tiretti Bazaar, Kolkata’s historic Chinatown, vendors serve traditional Chinese breakfast dishes before most of the city wakes. (Representative pic: Freepik)
At Tiretti Bazaar, Kolkata’s historic Chinatown, vendors serve traditional Chinese breakfast dishes before most of the city wakes. (Representative pic: Freepik)
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Kolkata's old Chinatown was named after an Italian architect, became home to Chinese traders in 1800s and is now the city's legendary breakfast spot.

If you think you know Kolkata, you haven't been to Tiretti Bazaar at 5 am. Tucked into the heart of the city is a neighbourhood that does not exist anywhere else in India — India's one and only historical Chinatown. First, the plot twist: Kolkata's old Chinatown was named after an Italian. Yes. Not Chinese. Italian. Also read | No red light, no green light, just hand signals: Thimphu is the only capital city on Earth that has no traffic lights at all

According to Incredibleindia.gov.in, in the late 18th century, a Venetian political exile and architect named Edoardo Tiretta bought land from the British East India Company to build a market. Locals anglicised his name, and Tiretti Bazaar was born. The name stuck long before the Chinese community even arrived.

The Chinese came for trade and just stayed

Per Incredibleindia.gov.in, in the mid-1800s, Chinese sailors travelling along the busy Indo-China maritime route would dock at the port of Calcutta (now Kolkata). They found jobs, opportunity, and a city that let them build a new life. So they stayed. Tanners, silk traders, carpenters, cooks — entire families set up shop in the lanes around Tiretti Bazaar, bringing their language, temples, and recipes with them.

The famous old Chinatown breakfast

Every morning, the lanes of old Chinatown fill with steam, shouting aunties, and massive metal vats of traditional Chinese food – from pork and chicken momos floating in clear, peppery scallion broth to steaming fish-ball soup and noodle soup that has been simmering for hours, plus pork buns, prawn toast, and sesame balls made from recipes that are over a hundred years old. It's authentic Chinese in Kolkata – and it's all gone before most of the city wakes up.

There's also a serene temple hidden in the chaos

Per Incredibleindia.gov.in, right in the middle of all the street food madness is the Temple of Lord Guan — dedicated to the Chinese God of loyalty and strength. Think red lanterns, incense, intricate woodwork, and total silence. It's a calm place in central Kolkata, literally steps away from the chaos.

The history goes even deeper than Tiretti Bazaar. Before Tiretti, there was Tong Achi, Incredibleindia.gov.in shared. His real name was Yang Tai Chow, and he arrived during Warren Hastings' time. He set up a sugar mill 33 km from Kolkata, in a place now called Achipur after him. To this day, his grave and a 200-year-old Chinese temple still stand there. Every Chinese New Year, people do a double pilgrimage — Tiretti Bazaar and Achipur — for lion dances, firecrackers, and ancestor worship.

 
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Sanya Panwar

With a keen eye for detail and a heart for storytelling, Sanya is a seasoned lifestyle journalist who has spent over a decade documenting the intersection of aesthetics and substance. Since stepping into the media world in 2012, she has cultivated a career defined by versatility, curiosity, and an unwavering passion for what makes life both beautiful and meaningful. Over the last many years, she has navigated the fast-paced realms of health, wellness, fitness and fashion while pivoting seamlessly into the nuances of decor and travel. Her work often explores the deeper layers of modern living, delving into art and decor trends that transform spaces, insightful perspectives on gender, parenting, and mental health, immersive travel narratives that capture the essence of a destination. A self-proclaimed aesthetics enthusiast, Sanya doesn't just report on trends — she analyses them. Whether she’s identifying the next shift in fitness or discovering a breakthrough in design, she uses her platform to spark meaningful conversations that resonate with a contemporary audience. Sanya is an alumna of St. Xavier’s College, Kolkata, and the Asian College of Journalism (ACJ), Chennai, where she honed the investigative rigour she brings to her lifestyle reporting today. When she isn't chasing deadlines or conducting interviews, Sanya practices what she preaches. You’ll likely find her sipping matcha, practicing yoga, or scouting the newest cafes. Above all, she finds her balance in nature — whether it's a quiet hike or a moment of reflection in the outdoors, she remains constantly inspired by the tranquillity of the natural world.

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Catch your daily dose of Fashion, Taylor Swift, Health, Festivals, Travel, Relationship, Recipe and all the other Latest Lifestyle News on Hindustan Times Website and APPs.
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