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Tropic of Cancer, an underrated Bhopal gem: Scenic drive worth experiencing in Madhya Pradesh’s countryside

A simple drive near Bhopal can feel special. Standing on the Tropic of Cancer with my sons felt magical, quiet, and unforgettable.

Published on: Jul 17, 2025, 18:00:29 IST
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Madhya Pradesh rarely rushes to impress. Its charm lies in the stillness of its lakes, the grace of heritage hotels, and weekends spent tracking tigers at Satpura’s Madhai or watching stars glitter above Pachmarhi’s waterfalls. Yet, beyond the famous Sanchi or Maheshwar’s calm Narmada banks hides a quiet surprise. Just outside Bhopal runs the Tropic of Cancer, a scenic drive that feels like one of the state’s most understated treasures.

The author and family at The Tropic of Cancer (Hindustan Times)
The author and family at The Tropic of Cancer (Hindustan Times)
Neha Ravi Khandelwal

Neha Khandelwal
Content Lead, HT Travel | Travel & Lifestyle Journalist
With over 10 years of content writing experience, Neha Khandelwal is a lifestyle journalist and the Content Lead at HT Travel. She specialises in destinations, hotels, aviation, luggage, travel gear, and practical guides that help readers plan smarter and travel better. Her work combines first-hand experience, expert insights, and extensive research to create stories that are informative, useful, and easy to follow.

Career Journey & Experience
Neha began her writing career as a freelance journalist in 2010 before entering mainstream media with The Times of India in 2022. She later joined Hindustan Times, where she has written extensively across travel, lifestyle, home, and consumer trends. Her professional background extends beyond journalism. Before moving into digital media full-time, she spent nearly a decade in interior design, managing residential projects from concept to execution. She also trained in visual merchandising with Shoppers Stop and Pantaloons and worked with women-led startups across design and operations. These experiences continue to shape her storytelling, especially in how she evaluates hotels, design-led stays, hospitality spaces, and travel experiences.

A naturally curious learner, Neha has completed beginner certifications in pottery, scuba diving, baking, creative writing, and other creative pursuits. She has read more than 2,000 books, trained in Bharatanatyam for 8 years, and ghostwritten a book on Ladakh tourism.

Subject Expertise
Travel is at the heart of Neha's work. She covers destinations, hotels, airlines, luggage, packing strategies, travel accessories, and emerging travel trends through a mix of reporting, product testing, and conversations with industry experts. A frequent traveller herself, she approaches every trip with a journalist's curiosity and a planner's mindset, focusing on experiences that readers can realistically recreate. From choosing the right cabin bag to decoding hotel openings and destination trends, her writing prioritises practical advice over promotional claims. Her background in interior design also gives her a distinct perspective on architecture, hospitality design, boutique hotels, luxury stays, and thoughtfully designed spaces.

Education & Professional Background
Neha holds a Master's degree in Interior Design. Her early experience in interior design, visual merchandising, and design operations gives her a unique understanding of aesthetics, functionality, and user experience, adding depth to her coverage of hotels, resorts, and travel spaces.

Editorial Philosophy
"As an avid, research-driven traveller, my goal is simple. To answer the questions you actually have before booking a trip. I cut through the promotional noise with honest reporting and expert insights. Making travel planning seamless, smart, and reliable so you always know where to go next."

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Bhopal always felt like quiet elegance to me; lakes, old-world hotels, and stories whispered through its history. I never expected a road trip to surprise me this much.

The road to the Tropic of Cancer begins about sixty kilometres from Bhopal on NH 46 towards Vidisha and Salamatpur. It starts with the city’s usual rhythm of traffic and people, then slowly melts into stretches of quiet countryside. Fields stretch endlessly on both sides, broken by small clusters of trees and the occasional farmstead.

Standing tall in the middle of nowhere amidst green countryside farms of Madhya Pradesh. (Hindustan Times)
Standing tall in the middle of nowhere amidst green countryside farms of Madhya Pradesh. (Hindustan Times)

That first long drive felt like living in an old storybook. The city faded, and suddenly it was just fields, wide skies, and the comforting hum of the road.

The monsoon months turn this route into something almost dreamlike, with fresh crops swaying gently and a soft breeze carrying the scent of damp earth. The skies feel impossibly wide, a clean expanse of blue or clouds moving lazily across. The drive is smooth, the highway well-maintained, making it ideal for those who love long hours on the road. There is a certain calm that settles in as the city noise fades, replaced by open landscapes, the sight of farmers at work, and the slow rhythm of rural life.

Standing on the Earth’s invisible line

The Tropic of Cancer may be an imaginary line on maps, but seeing it drawn boldly across a road feels almost surreal. School lessons never prepared anyone for this! A global latitude is quietly marked on a highway in the heart of Madhya Pradesh. Near Salamatpur, signboards announce its presence, and a simple white line runs across the tarmac.

I kept thinking, why did no one tell us in school that you could actually stand on this line? It felt silly and magical all at once.

There is something oddly thrilling about standing on it. People pause, laugh, take photos, and for a moment feel connected to something larger than themselves. Children and adults alike share the same curiosity: “Can you touch a line that circles the planet?”

The quiet surroundings add to the charm, with only the sound of the breeze and distant fields swaying, making it feel special despite its simplicity.

Why it’s a hidden treasure

The Tropic of Cancer near Bhopal remains overlooked because it is not the sort of place you plan an entire holiday around. It is a stop that surprises you on the way to somewhere else, quietly sitting in a state that has rarely rushed to commercialise its beauty. This makes it feel real and untouched. No crowds, no chaos, just open countryside and a marker that tells a story older than dynasties. Combine it with a visit to Sanchi, the Udayagiri Caves or even a few nearby dams, and it becomes part of a day that feels both scenic and meaningful.

Monastery 51 (Vihara 51) at Sanchi, a stone-built Buddhist monastery with cells arranged around a central courtyard, dating to the Gupta period. (Hindustan Times)
Monastery 51 (Vihara 51) at Sanchi, a stone-built Buddhist monastery with cells arranged around a central courtyard, dating to the Gupta period. (Hindustan Times)

The best things here are the ones no one shouts about. Maybe that’s why it feels so special. It is just there, quietly waiting.

The untouched banks of Halali Dam, en route to which you will encounter the Tropic of Cancer (Hindustan Times)
The untouched banks of Halali Dam, en route to which you will encounter the Tropic of Cancer (Hindustan Times)

Tips for your expedition

The best months to plan this drive are from October to March, when the weather is pleasant. Early mornings or late afternoons bring the softest light and cooler air. Carry a picnic, as food stops are basic. Look out for tea stalls, roasted corn sellers and guavas fresh from local farms.

Cars with tourists making a pit stop to take photos. (Hindustan Times)
Cars with tourists making a pit stop to take photos. (Hindustan Times)

Standing there for the first time felt almost unreal. I had only read about the Tropic of Cancer in schoolbooks, never imagining I would see it drawn across a quiet road in Madhya Pradesh. There was a rush of childlike excitement, the same kind that made me point it out to my sons and laugh at how something so big could feel so simple. That is the charm of this drive near Bhopal. It is not about grand attractions, just the joy of stumbling upon a piece of the world’s geography in the middle of fields and open skies.

Watching my sons jump around the white line, I realised I felt the same excitement. Some things remind you that we’re all still kids at heart.

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  • Neha Khandelwal
    ABOUT THE AUTHOR
    Neha Khandelwal

    Neha Khandelwal Content Lead, HT Travel | Travel & Lifestyle Journalist With over 10 years of content writing experience, Neha Khandelwal is a lifestyle journalist and the Content Lead at HT Travel. She specialises in destinations, hotels, aviation, luggage, travel gear, and practical guides that help readers plan smarter and travel better. Her work combines first-hand experience, expert insights, and extensive research to create stories that are informative, useful, and easy to follow. Career Journey & Experience Neha began her writing career as a freelance journalist in 2010 before entering mainstream media with The Times of India in 2022. She later joined Hindustan Times, where she has written extensively across travel, lifestyle, home, and consumer trends. Her professional background extends beyond journalism. Before moving into digital media full-time, she spent nearly a decade in interior design, managing residential projects from concept to execution. She also trained in visual merchandising with Shoppers Stop and Pantaloons and worked with women-led startups across design and operations. These experiences continue to shape her storytelling, especially in how she evaluates hotels, design-led stays, hospitality spaces, and travel experiences. A naturally curious learner, Neha has completed beginner certifications in pottery, scuba diving, baking, creative writing, and other creative pursuits. She has read more than 2,000 books, trained in Bharatanatyam for 8 years, and ghostwritten a book on Ladakh tourism. Subject Expertise Travel is at the heart of Neha's work. She covers destinations, hotels, airlines, luggage, packing strategies, travel accessories, and emerging travel trends through a mix of reporting, product testing, and conversations with industry experts. A frequent traveller herself, she approaches every trip with a journalist's curiosity and a planner's mindset, focusing on experiences that readers can realistically recreate. From choosing the right cabin bag to decoding hotel openings and destination trends, her writing prioritises practical advice over promotional claims. Her background in interior design also gives her a distinct perspective on architecture, hospitality design, boutique hotels, luxury stays, and thoughtfully designed spaces. Education & Professional Background Neha holds a Master's degree in Interior Design. Her early experience in interior design, visual merchandising, and design operations gives her a unique understanding of aesthetics, functionality, and user experience, adding depth to her coverage of hotels, resorts, and travel spaces. Editorial Philosophy "As an avid, research-driven traveller, my goal is simple. To answer the questions you actually have before booking a trip. I cut through the promotional noise with honest reporting and expert insights. Making travel planning seamless, smart, and reliable so you always know where to go next."Read More

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