London’s oldest restaurant, Rules, has entered a new chapter after the historic building that houses it was donated to the National Trust. Established in 1798, the Covent Garden institution has served generations of diners through wars, changing tastes and redevelopment threats.
Rules restaurant’s 228-year history
Founded by Thomas Rule as an oyster house in 1798, in the aftermath of the French Revolution, Rules has witnessed more than two centuries of British history. Its menu developed to include traditional British dishes, while its dining rooms became a meeting place for writers, actors, politicians and members of the royal family, according to the National Trust.
The restaurant has welcomed notable figures including Charles Dickens, Charlie Chaplin, David Bowie and Madonna. King Edward VII also reportedly met his mistress there, according to an Associated Press report published by ABC News.
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Rules’ survival, however, was not always guaranteed. In 1971, plans by the Greater London Council to turn the Strand into a dual carriageway threatened the restaurant with demolition. Poet John Betjeman spoke in its defence at a planning meeting, arguing that the atmosphere of a historic establishment could not simply be recreated elsewhere.
{{/usCountry}}Rules’ survival, however, was not always guaranteed. In 1971, plans by the Greater London Council to turn the Strand into a dual carriageway threatened the restaurant with demolition. Poet John Betjeman spoke in its defence at a planning meeting, arguing that the atmosphere of a historic establishment could not simply be recreated elsewhere.
{{/usCountry}}In a 2001 report for The Guardian, restaurant critic Jay Rayner recounted Betjeman’s defence of Rules and noted that the restaurant was saved following the planning meeting. One of its dining rooms is now named after the poet in recognition of his role in its preservation.
The restaurant also endured the Second World War and the Blitz. According to the National Trust, Rules continued serving traditional British food through wartime shortages and rationing, helping preserve culinary traditions that became less common elsewhere in Britain.
Why was Rules donated to the National Trust?
J-P Mayhew, who owned the building for four decades, has donated the property at 34-35 Maiden Lane, along with its historic collection, to the National Trust. The gift is valued at £11 million (around $14 million), according to the National Trust’s official announcement.
The donation includes visitor books, menus, photographs, caricatures, stained glass and signs that document the restaurant’s history. The annual rent from the restaurant business will also support the charity’s conservation work, the Associated Press reported.
The restaurant business itself is owned by Ricky McMenemy, who has worked at Rules for 35 years. He will continue running it as a commercial tenant under the National Trust, allowing the restaurant to retain its identity and continue welcoming diners.
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The charity described the property as a rare example of living heritage, with the historic building still serving its original purpose. The donation marks a significant step in safeguarding a London landmark whose history is tied not only to its famous guests but also to the city’s changing cultural life.
With the National Trust now responsible for the building, Rules is expected to remain part of London’s restaurant scene for generations to come.