On the kanwar route, devotion and some concerns

As the Kanwar Yatra opens, HT travels the 210km (Delhi to Haridwar) route to take stock of public perception – devotion mixed with some anxiety and concern

Dressed in saffron or yellow and a gamchha (towel) slung over their shoulders, millions of men (and some women) pour out of towns and villages across the northern heartland every monsoon, making their way on foot, on buses, motorcycles or cars to the Ganga ghats in Haridwar.

Most kanwariyas return from Haridwar with water cans, but some walk on towards Rishikesh to visit the Neelkanth temple. (Sanchit Khanna/HT) (HT)

Last year, roughly 40 million people undertook this holy journey that has unfortunately also come to be associated with incidents of vandalism and crime. As the Kanwar Yatra opens, HT travels the 210km

HT Graphics

STOP 4: Muzaffarnagar, Uttar Pradesh, 140km from Delhi

Before reaching Haridwar, a Shiva temple in Muzaffarnagar is an important pitstop for devotees. Located in the middle of Shiv Chowk road junction, the temple receives more than a million kanwariyas every year, said police. “The pilgrimage is incomplete without a parikrama at the Shiv temple. There’s some traffic issues but the police are always here,” said head priest Harish Bhardwaj. There are more than 50 camps set up in the city and 2,000 police personnel deployed. A separate control room is set up at Shiva Chowk for senior officers to monitor situation.

Bhardwaj explained how devotees come from different parts of the country and join the yatra. “I always have help. Some even volunteer to clean the temple...” he added.

“There’s no end to our duty at that time. I have worked for over 20 hours every day. If millions of men are on the streets, there will be some issues. But we cannot do much and have to maintain law and order,” said a police officer, requesting anonymity.

Director general of police (DGP) Rajiv Krishna told media that across UP over 587 gazetted officers, 2040 inspectors, 13,520 sub-inspectors, 39,965 head constables and constables, 1,486 women sub-inspectors, 8,541 women head constables and constables, 50 companies of Central Police Force and Pradeshik Armed Constabulary (PAC) and 1,424 Home Guards have been deployed.

STOP 5: Roorkee, Uttarakhand, 190km from Delhi

Roorkee comes to a standstill for two weeks during Kanwar season. More than 2,000 police personnel are deployed and over 100 camps are set up. As men and women dance to loud music blaring out of trucks, schools, colleges, offices and even a few markets remain shut. “The roads have been blocked since July 5. This will go on till July 23, till everyone comes back from Haridwar. Cleanliness is a major issue for us. The street outside my store is lined with garbage,” said Abhishek Grover, a grocery store owner.

Devotees also take big chariots for the Kawar Yatra. Some even carry their parents.

He said while he respected a large majority of devotees, some were hooligans. “I see them and I know they are intoxicated. I have three female staffers and I just tell them to take leave or not leave the store,” he added.

Retired IIT Roorkee professor, R Shankar, recalled a more peaceful time. “Devotees would walk in small groups and mind their own business. It all changed after 1990-92. There was this big spike in numbers. I am a religious man myself but I can’t support this,” he said.

A traffic police head constable said they lose count of their work hours. “Everyone I know is on the ground. The traffic is a huge issue. While local police focus on law and order, we have to see traffic as well. We have to ensure essential services don’t get affected. I usually don’t take leave during Kawar Yatra time,” he said.

STOP 6: Haridwar, Uttarakhand, 225 km from Delhi

It’s here that kanwariyas fill their pots with water from the Ganga and walk back to villages and towns across Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Delhi. Hotels, holy ghats, temples, lodges and eateries teem with people.

The streets, the ghats, temples and monuments are lit with decorations, lights, flowers and colourful banners.

From July 11 to 28, all schools will remain shut, offices will be closed and buses and rickshaws will stop plying on the roads. Diyas, flowers, puja items, religious pieces such as rudrakash, stones and other pieces will be sold at twice the price, said yadav.

“My wife and I come to Har Ki Paudi every day but we don’t come during the Kanwar Yatra. There’s no space to stand and there’s garbage everywhere. Police are called to remove people because there’s fear of stampede,” said retired teacher Rajan Yadav, 65.

The district magistrate’s office said over 45 million people arrived in Haridwar during the Kawar Yatra last year.

“We keep our shops open for 12-16 hours. People keep coming in and there’s no space to sit. I can’t stand all day and sell cans and puja items. I have a young daughter who also tries to help but I can’t allow her to stay here at night,” said Mohini Singh, a shopkeeper.

Many residents welcome the pilgrimage. Srishti Kulshrestha, 24, whose parents run a shop near the ghat, is one of them. “I see my family working for over 12 hours without any police help, handling crowds but they never complain. My mother says it’s like sewa (service).”

In all, 8,000 police personnel are deployed and hundreds camps set up. A police constable near Har Ki Paudi showed three CCTV rooms and announcement stations which are set up to help devotees, missing children and check for thefts or any nuisance

STOP 7: Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, 250km from Delhi

Most kanwariyas return from Haridwar with water cans, but some walk on towards Rishikesh to visit the Neelkanth temple. “Last year, more than six lakh people were there on a single day. . For two days, the entire stretch was blocked from Rishikesh main town to Neelkanth temple. Two or three years back, I remember there were heavy rains and people were stuck. The authorities closed roads and people were stuck near the temple, some were stuck on roads,” said Sumit Kanwal, a priest.

Kanwal added that young men and women often do the trek to complete the pilgrimage. “Some do it for their elderly parents, others do it in groups. It’s truly surprising to see so many people turning up here. They visit our temple as well.”

Colourful chariots, idols, posters and models line the streets. Some Kawar Yatris fix their own chariots and pots as they trek towards Rishikesh

Only 50-60 camps are set up at Rishikesh as most devotees have to trek during rains. Police officials told HT that police are deployed at every post or road junction since the devotees walk around the entire city to get to the temple.

“For 15-18 days, it’s complete madness. I have seen men who remove silencers from their bikes. Their speakers cause headaches and my parents do not move out,” said Kuldeep Singh, a local guide. “Nobody can confront them as they are always angry.”