Payal Jain's voyage of discovery

One of the most striking aspects of Payal Jain's work is her impeccable tailoring. It's this that makes her one of India's best and shows how well in tune she is with the international market.

One of the most striking aspects of Payal Jain's work is her impeccable tailoring. It's this that makes her one of India's best and shows how well in tune she is with the international market.

HT Image

Her western-fusion wear shows a true meeting of Indian and western sensibilities. She uses Indian surface treatments: chikan, block printing, bakhia stitch, cutwork; Indian fabrics, brocades, raw silks, on structured western silhouettes along with panné velvet, lycra, faux suede and leather in cross over colours that sit well at home but do not frighten western buyers. This collection palette was autumnal, reminiscent of falling leaves and deep gemstones.

The first sequence had a strongly oriental feel with acid green raw silk brocade-edged jackets wrapped and bound by obi-style high belts. These were worn over black skirts - not as mini as has been the main trend this week or churidar/leggings ruched all the way down the out seem.

Faux suede was used in beautiful patchwork skirts in multi-muted shades finished with chikan. There were several must-have lycra tops in autumnal rusts and ochres worked with chikan and layered.

As with most collections seen this week, it would be difficult to pinpoint any radical new trends, but Jain's show was a delight to watch for its quality and commerciality.

A big hit!