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The archaeologists of old Ganjing

THEIR RENDEZVOUS with city of ?nawabs? began in 1967 and Lucknawi culture fascinated them. The archaeologist couples Jean-Francois Jarrige and Catherine Jarrige from Paris are back in the city after a gap of over three decades to attend the seminar organized by Directorate of Archaeology.

Published on: Jan 19, 2006, 00:13:00 IST
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THEIR RENDEZVOUS with city of ‘nawabs’ began in 1967 and Lucknawi culture fascinated them.

HT Image
HT Image

The archaeologist couples Jean-Francois Jarrige and Catherine Jarrige from Paris are back in the city after a gap of over three decades to attend the seminar organized by Directorate of Archaeology.

Though the silhouette of the city has changed and it is moving fast on the path of modernity, but the Jarriges get nostalgic while talking about the old Lucknow. Jean says the traffic on the road has increased and roads are studded with multi-storied buildings, but the good point is that old Lucknow has not changed much.

Jarriges were working on the ancient settlement of Mehgarh located in Baluchistan province of Pakistan from 1975 to 2000. But due to threat posed by the tribe led by federal minister Ya Mohammad Rinhd, they had to leave Pakistan and much of the excavated site was destroyed by the tribal.

Jean and Catherine recalled the days when they were in Lucknow from 1967 to 1969. Jean was a visiting Professor in Lucknow University and stayed on Wazir Hasan Road. After landing at Lucknow on Tuesday both went for Ganjing.

Closure of Mayfair dismayed them but at the same time when they found that old Lucknow was keeping its spirit alive they were enlightened. Jean said botanical garden was their favorite spot and they spent morning walking in the garden. “In evening I attended ‘mushaira’ and Begum Akhtar was my favourite ghazal singer”, he said.

Jean and Catherine plan to visit Lahuradewa in Sant Kabir Nagar district where first farming activities in Indian sub continent has come to light after the excavation carried out by Directorate of Archaeology.

Talking about their experience in Mehgarh Jean and Catherine said an archaeological remains indicates that farming and domestication of cattle in this region began around the same period as that of West Asia. “Rather Mehgarh is the continuation of the West Asian farming culture’, Jean said.

“The archaeological remains indicate that Mehgarh settlement was 3000 years older than Indus Valley civilization. Several ancient graveyards were found during excavation and they were 9000 years old”, Jean said.

Among the grave goods they found lapis lazuli and sea shell ornaments. The craft was sophisticated and the inhabitants had learned mastered craftsmanship 4000 years back, he said.

Archaeology drew Jean and Catherine toward each other and finally they decided to tie the nuptial chord.

Jean is Director of Guimet Museum at Paris. At present they working at another ancient site located near Mazar-e-Sharif in Afghanistan. Their next mission is to study the ancient Greek and Roman settlements.

  • Rajesh Kumar Singh
    ABOUT THE AUTHOR
    Rajesh Kumar Singh

    Rajesh Kumar Singh is Assistant Editor, Hindustan Times, at the political bureau in Lucknow. An Alumnus of Ramjas College, Delhi and the University of Delhi, he has covered politics in the Hindi heartland Uttar Pradesh and Bihar for three decades and has written extensively on Dalit and OBC politics. He travelled across Uttar Pradesh to cover the panchayat, assembly and Lok Sabha elections. Along with writing on development issues, governance and public policy has done crime reporting, including Maoist activities in Bihar as well as activities of gangsters in East Uttar Pradesh, Jungle Party gang active on UP- Bihar border, dacoit gangs in Bundelkhand region and Sand Mafia active in various districts of UP. Has done investigations and reporting exposing multi-crore NRHM scam in UP, Nutrition scam, Medicine supply scam, irregularities in the flood management projects, weapon smuggling and human trafficking on Indo- Nepal border. He highlighted the deaths of children due to encephalitis in the districts of East Uttar Pradesh; the central and state government took cognisance of the report to launch schemes to check deaths and improve the facilities in the health centres and hospitals. He also reported on the social issues in East Uttar Pradesh and Bundelkhand- migration, farming crisis, water crisis, plight of the deprived communities- Musahar, Vantongiyas, Sahariya and Kol communities. He covers state government departments. He also travels to write human-interest stories and in-depth stories from the ground in the Bundelkhand, Purvanchal, and Rohilkhand regions of Uttar Pradesh.Read More