Buy the way: These markets sell witches’ brews, exist to celebrate divorce

In Bolivia, a witches’ market is reminiscent of Grimms fairy tales. And in Mauritania, divorce markets are dedicated to endings and new beginnings.

Travelling through Bolivia, I soon learned that “Con yapa?” is an ancient Spanish passkey that unlocks a lot.

Ask that question of a shopkeeper after a purchase and, besides a wide smile, one can expect a small token or an extra helping of something. Literally “Is there an add-on?”, this is the Bolivian version of buy one, get one free.

The first time I uttered the incantation with great success was in a place shrouded in mystery and folklore.

In

Soapstone figurines on sale at the Witches’ Market in La Paz. (Adobe Stock)

Ware to now?

A whole continent and ocean away, in the West African nation of Mauritania, I came upon another market that was nothing like what I thought a market could be.

This is a country where divorce is celebrated. Once- or twice-married women are considered more desirable than previously unmarried ones because they are believed to have acquired vital experience in running a home, and have often accumulated assets as a result of the country’s matrilineal society.

The matrilineal tilt and the view of divorce both have roots in the cultures of the Sanhaja Berber and Hilalian Arab tribes from which most Mauritanians descend.

In this tradition, a good outcome is typically considered to be one in which the woman keeps the contents of the home, and retains custody of the children, but surrenders the house itself and moves back in with her parents until she remarries.

All across the country, divorce markets help women negotiate these steps. The largest such market, in the capital of Nouakchott, offers access to women brokers who can help negotiate loose ends; thrift shops where divorcees can sell or swap household items; salons where they can cover themselves in henna before they head out in search of a new husband; and eateries where they may mingle in search of new love.

The thrift shops do a particularly brisk business, since it is considered auspicious to sell items from one’s previous marriage and start a new union with fresh wares.

Interestingly, these practices continue even though Mauritania is now largely Muslim. Islam’s instant-triple-talaq keeps divorce from becoming complicated, both the men and women say.

The system, and the market, certainly felt unfamiliar; but then again, what form of matrimony is perfect?