From traditional jhumkas to contemporary chandbalis: Tips to choose earrings that work for different occasions

Looking for the perfect pair of earrings? Here's a quick guide on how to choose between jhumkas, chandbalis, and more.

In Indian jewellery, earrings do more than complement an outfit; they frame the face, direct light, and set the emotional tone for an entire look. As the calendar shifts between sacred pujas, high-energy sangeets, and intimate festive dinners, choosing the right earring silhouette is about understanding balance, movement, and context.

In an interview with HT Lifestyle, Diksha Rajawat, third-generation jeweller at Fulchand Gulabchand Jewellers, shared a quick guide on how to select the right pair for every occasion.

1. The heritage chandbali

With its iconic crescent silhouette, the chandbali evokes timeless royal elegance. “Detailed with seed pearls, delicate bead fringes, and sculpted gold arches, it naturally softens sharp jawlines,” said Rajawat.

Pair ornate chandbalis with deep scoop, sweetheart, or wide boat necklines on lehengas and shararas.

How to style: Pair ornate chandbalis with deep scoop, sweetheart, or wide boat necklines on lehengas and shararas. Keep your hair swept back into a sleek low bun so the kinetic movement of the crescent takes centre stage.

2. The sculptural jhumka

How to style: When wearing an elaborate, high-dome jhumka, skip the necklace entirely. Let your collarbones breathe and style them with rich handlooms like Paithanis, Banarasis, or Kanjeevarams.

3. The articulated chandelier drop

Rajawat highlighted that for modern festive silhouettes, linear chandelier drops offer striking visual drama without the visual weight of conventional sets. Featuring articulated gold leaves, ruby accents, and dangling emerald clusters, they elongate the neck with every turn.

How to style: These are ideal for structured corsets, capes, or contemporary pre-draped sarees where you want vertical elongation and vivid pops of festive colour.

The bell-shaped jhumka remains an essential classic for Navratri, Diwali, and traditional wedding rituals.

4. The temple coin dangler

Chandelier earrings anchored by round coin-motif drops (ginni detailing) and polki accents offer an old-world, antique charm. They provide wide coverage at the earlobe while tapering into delicate suspended tassels.

How to style: Perfect for morning mehendi ceremonies or pastel silk kurtas, pairing effortlessly with minimalist necklines or fine gold chokers.

Never let your earrings fight with your neckline or your collarbones. When in doubt, allow one statement element to lead; if the earring brings the drama, let everything else step back and admire the view.