The timeless taste of traditions

Liven up your Lohri platter with age old treats such as Til Bhugga, Khajoor, Pinni Laddoo and Gajak that are just perfect for the winter season.

The harvest festival of Lohri, which falls on January 13, kicks off the long list of celebrations in India. Marked by lighting a bonfire, and singing and dancing to folk tunes, the festival also commemorates Dulha Bhatti’s (popularly known as the Robin Hood of Punjab) tale of marrying off two girls, Sundari and Mundari by requesting people to donate jaggery and grains for the wedding. On this day, kids visit houses in their neighbourhood and sing Sunder Mundriye Ho, a folk rendition of this tale. As the country prepares for muted celebrations amid Covid-19 curbs, food becomes the most important aspect of the festival. So, take a look at the traditional delicacies that form the Lohri ki thaali, that you can dig in.

Sarson ka Saag

It’s customary to consume seasonal food items on this day and thus, sarson ka saag becomes an essential part of the menu. “This delicacy requires careful precision to get the right taste. Mustard leaves and spinach are blanched and cooked uncovered as green vegetables have volatile acids which should be allowed to escape or else the green vegetables lose their colour and become bitter in taste. You can add one baby turnip, a small radish or one carrot for variation,” says Rajesh Singh, executive sous chef, Taj Mahal, New Delhi.

Makkai Roti

Sarson ka saag without the rustic makki di roti (cornmeal flatbread) is simply unimaginable. Topped with a generous amount of desi ghee, along with the whole green chillies and masala gud, this combination is a classic. “To avoid breakage (by getting dry), corn roti should either be rolled out with wet hands or one can use wet silver foil, butter paper, polythene paper to press it with hand. You can make it softer by adding ghee while kneading the flour. My dadi used to add chopped onion, chili, chopped radish leaves and grated radish in the batter for a fresh flavour,” shares chef Navneet Singh, executive chef, Welcomhotel Amritsar.

Prepared with jaggery, peanuts and sesame seeds, gajak is a well-known dessert or confection. There are varieties of gajak such as gud-til gajak, til-rewari gajak, khas gajak and til-mawa gajak that prepared on this day. “Experimental versions of gajak and rewari with infusions of chocolate, sea-salt caramel and even whiskey, are becoming popular in the market,” informs Rajesh.

Rewri, Tilgul, Til ke laddu, Til Bhugga, Chikki, Til baati are prepared with jaggery and sesame seeds. (Shutterstock)

Til Bhugga

It’s believed that the term Lohri comes from the word ‘Tilohri’ i.e. ‘til’ (sesame) and ‘rorhi’ (gur). Hence, these form the main ingredient in many dishes and sweets made during this festival. Such an item is the til bhugga, which is a sweet dish made with sesame seeds and khoya. “The bonfire is called bhugga and the sweet is named after it. While making these, just keep in mind the proportion of sesame, sugar and Khoya should be 1:2:2. Sesame seeds should be dry roasted and grounded,” says Navneet.

Khajoor

Made from flour and ghee, this miniature version of ghewar is quintessential for weddings and festivities in Amritsar. “It is made by frying flour in ghee. During the week of Lohri prep, you would see shops making it live for everyone to see, get enticed and buy. It is a sweet that travels well. And it did, in the past from the bylanes of Amritsar to the homes in Lahore. However, it now remains privy to the people of Amritsar,” says Navneet.

Pinni Ke Laddoo

Known as Lohri special laddoo. Made with whole wheat flour, dry fruits, dry grated coconut, lots of clarified butter, almonds and edible gum, gud ka boora or khaand is generally used as a sweetener for this. “Apart from the traditional varieties, people are experimenting with chia, melon, sunflower and flax seeds to prepare rewari, gajak, and pinnis now,” says Anand Panwar, executive pastry chef, Roseate Hotels & Resorts.

This immunity- boosting food is made with Punjabi masalaewala gud.

Spiced Jaggery Halwa

Considered to be an immunity- boosting food, this lustrous and creamy halwa is prepared with Punjabi masale wala gud.

Ingredients:Semolina: 1 ½ cupBengal gram flour: ½ cupClarified butter (Ghee): 1 cupAlmonds, slivered: 1 tbspMelon seeds: 1 tbspMilk: 1tbsp For the jaggery syrup:Water: 8 cupsSpiced jaggery: 1 ½ cup or more if desired

Method:Add the grated spiced jaggery to the water in a deep saucepan.After bringing it to a boil add the milk.You will find the dirt floating on the top of the syrup. Discard the froth with the help of a ladle.Strain the syrup after it thickens through the muslin cloth.Heat ghee in a non-stick kadai, the semolina and Bengal gram flour. Keep stirring it over a medium flame.Once it attains a light golden colour and you can smell the aroma of cooked semolina and Bengal gram flour, add the slivered nuts and melon seeds.Let it cook for a few seconds.Now, add the prepared syrup and continuously stir it till it becomes thick.Serve the halwa piping hot, garnished with slivered/chopped nuts and rose buds.

By chef Reetu Uday Kugaji