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A slightly messy tribute: Raul Dias reviews The Looney, The Lover & The Poet

Its name is a tribute to Shakespeare; the food hearty and comforting, even when it’s not authentic. Do try the Georgian khachapuri flatbread.

Published on: May 12, 2018 06:20 pm IST
Hindustan Times | By Raul Dias
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We stepped into The Looney, The Lover & The Poet for lunch on a torrid summer day. It occupies the Khar Danda space where the short-lived Mumbai outpost of Thalassa had set up shop.

In fact, we caught glimpses of quite a few décor elements from its predecessor — including the Portuguese azulejo tile bar counter and straight-backed wooden chairs. But there are new trimmings too: colourful fabric pinwheels attached onto the ceiling, dreamcatchers and fairy lights in the al fresco space.

The Italy-meets-Thailand savoury cannolis, stuffed with kafir lime-laced crab meat and limoncello salt, should have had less of the processed crab stick and more of the real crustacean. (Satyabrata Tripathy / HT Photo)

Intent on paying homage to a Midsummer Night’s Dream, this place borrows more than just its name from the Shakespearean comedy.

The menu here is quite literally all over the place. A perfect example is our quartet of Italy-meets-Thailand savoury cannolis generously stuffed with kafir lime-laced crab meat and limoncello salt. We only wish they’d used less of the processed crab stick and more of the real crustacean.

The Afghani ashak dumplings were plump and succulent, with a ricotta cheese and scallion core. (Satyabrata Tripathy / HT Photo)

Plump and succulent with a ricotta cheese and scallion core, the Afghani ashak dumplings were slathered in an umami-rich lamb sauce.

Bursting with its kale, green apple and cucumber flavours, the gin-based Almost A Detox held great promise of a healthy cocktail…if there ever is such a thing. Caprice, our non-alcoholic strawberry, pineapple and goji berry drink was refreshing, if a tad diluted with all the ice.

The Hokkaido chicken curry was more Goan than Japanese karē, but served with fluffy jasmine rice was nonetheless comforting and flavoursome. (Satyabrata Tripathy / HT Photo)

The khachapuri, that wonderful, boat-shaped cheesy flat bread from Georgia, was sublime. Perfectly marinated artichokes, sundried tomatoes and mushrooms sat atop a soft pizza-like base, with toasted pine nuts providing texture.

Though missing the authenticity mark by a mile, and more on the lines of a Goan curry than a typically Japanese karē, the Hokkaido chicken curry, served with fluffy jasmine rice was both comforting and flavoursome.

Our dessert — homemade chamomile ice-cream cushioned by a moist, fragrant pistachio cake, dusted with bee pollen and drizzled with honey — was a winner. (Satyabrata Tripathy/HT Photo)

With a limited dessert selection to pick from, we got a portion of All The Honey in the World. Honey-drizzled, homemade chamomile ice-cream cushioned by a moist, fragrant pistachio cake, dusted with the very au courant bee pollen made this one a winner. “What’s in a name?” One might ask. The Looney, The Lover & The Poet has something of an answer.

(HT reviews anonymously and pays for all meals)

 
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