In a move aimed at reducing overcrowding on the world's highest mountain peak, Nepal is set to introduce new regulations that would limit Everest climbing permits to only those with prior high-altitude mountaineering experience in the country.
According to the draft of a new law registered in the National Assembly, climbers will be required to have successfully scaled at least one 7,000-metre (22,965 ft) mountain in Nepal before qualifying for an Everest permit, a Reuters report mentioned.
The proposed legislation is part of a broader effort to address concerns over congestion on Mount Everest, particularly in the "death zone" - the area near the summit where oxygen levels are dangerously low.
Nepal, which relies heavily on mountaineering tourism for foreign exchange, has faced mounting criticism in recent years for issuing too many permits, including to climbers lacking adequate experience. Several photos and videos have captured overcrowding and ‘traffic jam’ on the Mount Everest with queues of climbers waiting to touch the peak.
In 2023, the Nepalese government issued 478 Everest permits, during which at least 12 climbers died and another five went missing. The previous year saw eight deaths on the mountain.
Draft law draws criticism
{{/usCountry}}In 2023, the Nepalese government issued 478 Everest permits, during which at least 12 climbers died and another five went missing. The previous year saw eight deaths on the mountain.
Draft law draws criticism
{{/usCountry}}The new draft law also stipulates that the sardar (head of local staff) and mountain guides accompanying climbers must be Nepali citizens, further tightening the rules around expedition personnel.
However, the proposal has been getting criticism from some international expedition operators, who argue the restrictions are too narrow. Lukas Furtenbach of Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, who is currently leading an expedition on Everest, said the requirement should not be limited to Nepal's 7,000-metre peaks.
"That wouldn't make any sense. And I would also add mountains that are close to 7,000 metres to that list and that are widely used as preparation, like Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali and others," Reuters quoted Furtenbach.
He also raised concerns about the exclusion of foreign guides, citing a shortage of certified Nepali mountain guides.
"It is important that mountain guides have a qualification like IFMGA [International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations], no matter what nationality they are. We do also welcome Nepali IFMGA guides to work in the Alps in Europe," he said.
Garrett Madison of US-based Madison Mountaineering echoed similar concerns, suggesting that requiring climbers to scale a 6,500-metre peak anywhere in the world would be a more practical benchmark.
"It's too difficult to find a reasonable 7,000-metre plus peak in Nepal," Madison said.
While Nepal has more than 400 peaks open for expeditions, only 74 exceed 7,000 metres in elevation. Among these, only a handful are popular with climbers, according to local expedition officials.
"Only a few of the 7,000 metre mountains attract climbers," said Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa of 14 Peaks Expedition, who has summited Everest eight times.
The proposed law is currently under review in Nepal's upper house of parliament, where the ruling alliance holds the majority ne