Celebrating Pongal, a southern harvest festival where regional dishes rule

The holiday, with roots in Tamil Nadu, is celebrated across India and will be observed from the 15th to the 18th of January this year.

In India, celebrations for Pongal, a four-day harvest festival marking the end of the winter solstice, are already in full swing. The holiday, with roots in Tamil Nadu, is celebrated across India, akin to festivals like Makar Sankranti and Lohri and will be observed from the 15th to the 18th of January this year. The festival of Pongal has its origins steeped in antiquity, dating back to the Sangam Age (300 BC–300 AD). Initially celebrated as a Dravidian harvest festival, it has evolved to mark the sun's northward journey, Uttarayan, symbolizing the end of winter and the onset of spring.

The term ‘Pongal’ in Tamil translates to ‘to boil over’, a reflection of the popular ritual where the first rice of the season is boiled to signify an overflow of bounty and gratitude to nature and the deities. This is just the beginning of the culinary experiences that rightfully take up significant importance during the festival.

A FOUR-DAY FOOD FIESTA

Pongal is a four-day celebration, each day distinct in its customs and culinary practices. The first day, Bhogi Pongal, involves the preparation of traditional delicacies as a part of the home-cleansing process. On the second day, Surya Pongal is highlighted by cooking the Pongal dish outdoors as an offering to the Sun God. Mattu Pongal, the third day, includes feasting in honour of cattle. Finally, Kaanum Pongal focuses on family gatherings and sharing of a variety of dishes. “During the traditional ceremonies, among the most popular food offerings you can spot are Sakkarai Pongal (festive rice with jaggery and lentils), Ven Pongal (ghee-laden rice and lentil porridge), vadai (a savoury fried sprevalent in southern cuisine), puliyodharai (a tamarind-flavored spiced rice), kootu (a vegetable-based dish made with lentils) and murukku (snack made from rice flour, lentil flours and spices),” says Chef Shaurya Veer Kapoor of Sambar Soul.

Differentiating among the two beloved Pongal preparations, he explains, “Sweet Pongal is a dessert made with rice, jaggery, ghee, and cashews, offering a sweet and aromatic flavour. Venn Pongal, on the other hand, is a savoury dish made with rice and lentils, typically seasoned with black pepper and cumin.”

REGIONAL CELEBRATION GONE NATIONAL

Over the years as people and cultures immigrated between states and countries, the associated culinary rituals that are observed during Pongal went on to become a key part of the hospitality industry as both regional and contemporary dishes started appearing on the menus of restaurants. Talking about the regional celebrations and distinct dishes that appear as we travel, Chef Sukesh Kanchan, Executive Chef at Sana de ge elaborates, “It is a festival celebrated widely in Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, and Maharashtra. In Maharashtra, people eat roti made of Bajra sprinkled with til and mixed vegetable gravy which includes palak, carrot, peas, green chana, papdi, etc.”

Sana-di-ge's Makar Sankranti/Pongal Extravaganza from the 12th to the 18th of January 2024, priced at INR 1399+ per person, highlights coastal dishes alongside the classics. The Tanjore Tiffin Room in Andheri West, Mumbai adds a historical touch to the Pongal celebration, serving a menu rich in traditional Tamil dishes like Kaikari Kootu, Sweet Pongal, and Ven Pongal. Their menu is available from the 15th to the 17th of January 2023, priced at Rs. 650. Another eatery in Mumbai for an authentic experience is Santosham. Known for its commitment to traditional flavours, invites diners to an “Unlimited Banana Leaf Feast” at Rs. 799+ from the 13th to the 15th of January. At the InterContinental Chennai’s The Melting Pot, you can try a chef(s)-special menu on the day of Pongal from 12:30 pm to 3:00 pm for a fine-dining yet traditional experience.